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SCENES 






IN THE 



HAWAIIAN ISLANDS 



AND 



CALIFORNIA. 



4b* *p*a 

BY, MARY E. ANDERSON, ^tr-.; *f 



" The isles shall wait upon me, and on mine arm shall they trust." 

Isaiah li. 5. 





BOSTON: 

THE AMERICAN TRACT SOCIETY 

Instituted 1814. 

DEPOSITORIES, 28 CORNHILL, BOSTON, 

AND 1-3 BIBLE HOUSE, ASTOR PLACE, NEW YORK. 



6^ 



v D 



Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1865, by 

THE AMERICAN TRACT SOCIETY, 

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the District of Massachusetts. 



Cornhill Press: 

Dakin and Metcalf, 
Boston. 



NOTE BY THE PUBLISHERS. 



In the year 1863, Rev. Eufus Anderson, D. D., 
senior Secretary of the American Board of 
Commissioners for Foreign Missions, visited the 
Hawaiian Islands on official business connected 
with the missionary work of that institution. 
He was accompanied, in that visit, by his wife 
and daughter, the latter of whom preserved 
some memoranda of the journey and the scenes 
to which it introduced her, for the gratification 
of her friends. From these notes the present 
volume has been prepared. The interest which 
the friends of missions in this country have 
long cherished for that people — youngest born 
in the family of Christian nations — will lead 
them to welcome these unpretending sketches, 
as affording both instruction and entertainment 
to themselves and their children. 



in 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. — From New York to Aspinwall. 

The Bargain. — Our Steamer and Staterooms. — A Schooner 
in a bad Place. — Porpoises. — Pirate Alabama. . . 9 

CHAPTER II. — Isthmus of Darien. 

Baggage. — Wreck. — Isthmus Toilets. — Aspinwall. — Tropi- 
cal Scenery. — Huts. 17 

CHAPTER III. — Panama. 

TiledHouses. — Emigrants. — "MceLomonard." — First-Class 
Hotel. — Mud Pies and Clean Clothes. — Crabs. — Aquaria. 
— Borrowed Houses. — Cathedral. — At Anchor, r— Toboga. 
— Accommodations.— Dessert 24 

CHAPTER IV.— From Panama to San Francisco. 

A Rocket.— Acapulco. — On Shore. — Adobe Houses. — Mar- 
ket-Place. — No Breakfast. —Boys Diving. — D evil-Fish. — 
A real Sunday. — Manzanilla. — Golden Gate. — Baby 
Afloat. — Lives Lost. — Backbone of America. — Inspect- 
ing. — " Baa." — Bill of Fare. — At the Wharf, . . .33 

CHAPTER Y. — San Francisco. 

Lick House. — At Church. — Mission Dolores. — Street Cars. — 
A Ride. — Hills. — Surf. — Old Church and Burying- 
Ground. — The One Rose. — Good-bys. — Union Jack.— 
"Dropped Down." — The Bar. — All Sails set. — Racks. — 
Rolls.— Bell Buoy 45 

IV 



CONTENTS. V 

CHAPTER VI. — Honolulu. 

Desolation. — A Delightful Contrast. — Boats Alongside. — 
Hurrah ! — Farewells and Greetings. — A Home on Shore. — 
Friends. — Cousins' Society. — Fairy-Land. — The Sere- 
nade. — Church Bells. — Native Church. — Native Indus- 
try, Liberality, and Perseverance. — Dress. — " Aloha." . 54 

CHAPTER VII. — Honolulu continued. 

A Dinner Party. — Punch Bowl. — An extinct Crater. — Taro 
Patches. — Ovens. — Poi and Raw Fish. — Fingers better 
than Spoons. — A Donation Party. — Prince William. — 
Tomb of the Kings. — Prayer-Meeting. — Examination. — 
A Green Rose. — Home Letters. — The Palace. — The Queen. 

— Riding in a Royal Carriage. — Horseback-Riding Party. 

— Native Women Riding. — Church. — Native Pews. — A 
Quarter of a Dollar. 64 

CHAPTER VIII.— From Honolulu to Hilo. 

Steamer's Deck. — Hair Decorations. — The Queen and her 
Suite. — The Queen's Guard. — Singular Accommodations. 

— Lahaina. — A Breakfast on Shore. — Kind Natives. — 
Cocoa-nuts. — Lessons in Hawaiian. — The King and his 
Greeting. — Where Captain Cook was killed. — Such Roads ! 

— Dinner on Shore. — Orange-Trees. — Precipices. — Cas- 
cades. — Waipio. — Hilo. — Landing in the Surf. — Spiders. 76 

CHAPTER IX. — The Volcano. 

Gipsies. — Up Hill and Down. — Lame Horse. — An Ac- 
commodating Family. — House Inside and Outside. — A 
Lowly Table. — Prayers. — Calabashes. — Native Men. — 
Started again. — A Rain. — Gigantic Ferns. — Volcano 
House. — A Table again. — The Crater and its Wonders. — 
A Lake on Fire. — Lava. — Blow Hole. — " There, there," a 
grand Chorus. — Aa. — Ohelo Berries 86 

CHAPTER X.— A Story about Kapiolani. 

A Christian Princess. — A Heathen God insulted. — The True 
God worshiped. — Tabu. — A Gallop. — A Dingy Hut 
changed to a Fairy Bower. — Hard Riding. — Rest. — 
Departure. — Surf Boards 97 



VI CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER XI.— Kau and Journey to Kaawaloa. 

Waiohinu Boarding-SchooL — Familiar Hymns and Tunes. — 
Flower Wreaths and "Wands. — Preaching to Foreigners. — 
Saddle-Bags. — Aa. — Pahoihoi. — Candle-Nut. — Rest at 
Night. — Tapa. — Arrival at Kaawaloa. — Kapiolani's House. 
— Bonaparte.—- Kindness 106 



CHAPTER XII. — Kaawaloa. 

City of Refuge. — Lava Falls. — Kaahumanu's Rock. — Great 
Chief. — Captain Cook. — Monthly Concert. — Cook's 
Death. — Meager Monuments. — Oranges. — Breadfruit. — 
Food. — Cockroaches. — Ants 116 



CHAPTER XIIL — Kailua. 

Carriage Broken,— Cocoa-nut Milk. — " Pilikia." — " Maikai." 

— Prickly Pear. — Thorns. — Century Plant. — Wonder at 
the Carriage. — Fear of the Horses. — Donation, -r Anniver- 
sary. — Communion. — Steamer arrived. — Carried by the 
Natives. — Children. — Arrival at Honiopu. — Ugly Horse. 

— White Mule. — Showers.— Welcome 127 



CHAPTER XIV. — Kohala and Waimea. 

Rain. — Large Shrubs. — Fruit. — " Keika Wahine." — " The 
Promised Land." — Enthusiastic Meeting. — Original 
Hymns. — Address by Timotao Nalanipo. — Shaking 
Hands 137 

CHAPTER XV. — Maui. 

Horseback Journey from Waimea to Kowaihae. — A Heathen 
Temple. — Sacrifices. — Steamer. — A Storm of Sand. — 
A Deluge. — Gifts. — Singing. — Iao Valley. — Shelling. — 
Precipices. — A Novel Sketch. — The Needle. — War. — A 
Race. — Ravages of a Waterspout. — Sail in a Whale-Boat. 

— Lahaina from the Sea. — Lahainaluna. — Examination. 

— Generals. — Commencement. — Dinner 150 



CONTENTS. VII 



CHAPTER XVI.— Lahaina— Kauai. 

Bide. — Cocoa-nut Grove. — American Consul's House.— 
Sugar Mill and Making. — Dust. — Communion. — Singing 
old Tunes. — Exhibition. — Love Tokens. — At Honolulu 
again.— Calls on the Father and Sister of the King.— 
"Annie Laurie." — Sea-Sickness. — Arrival at Kauai.— 
Princeville. — A Beautiful Bouquet. —View. — Journey. — 
A Fall from a Horse.— Lunch. — A Resting-Place. — A 
Bluff. 



163 



CHAPTER XVII. — Kauai and Oahu. 

Flowers. — A Coach and Four. — Lassos. — Lihue.— Wailua 
Falls. — Koloa. — Spouting Horn. — Church. — A Large 
Cavalcade.— An Arid Place. — Waimea. — " Old Jonah." 
— Sandboats and Forts on the Beach. — Garden.— Koloa 
again. — A Dinner. — Another Trip in the Annie Laurie. — 
A Salt Lake. — Ewa. — Lunch at Kahuku. — A pretty Bath- 
ing-Place.— Peacocks.— Idols 174 

CHAPTER XVIII. — Oahu. 

Native Pastor. — Dinner. —Lassoing. — Falls of KaLiuwaa. — 
The Canoe. — Kaneohe. — A Runaway. — The Pali. — De- 
feated Warriors. — Return to Honolulu. — Missionaries. — 
General Meeting. — Examination at Oahu College. — Exhi- 
bition. — Flags.— President's Levee. — Harmony. — Num- 
ber of Converts. — Cousins' Meeting !85 

CHAPTER XIX.— Honolulu. 
GeneralMeeting.-AFineGarden.— Mangoes. -Apple-Tree. 
—Decorations for the Schoolhouse. — Cousins' Annual 
Meeting. — Laying the Burden down and Taking it up. — 
Lizards°. — Scorpions and Centipedes. —Farewell Party. — 
Gi f ts . — a Donation Party. —Diamond Head. — Natives on 
Horseback. — Rat. — Ordination of Mr. H.H.Parker.— 
Candy-Pull. —Fourth of July. — An Oration. — A Picnic. 
-Farewell Address. -"Aloha." -The Islands left be- 

^ a .... 197 
hmd. 



VIII CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER XX. — Voyage to San Francisco. 

Calms. — A Patient Captain. — " All Serene." — Flying Fish. 
— Porpoises. — Whales. — " Skip Jacks." — Peanuts. — 
Colored Water. — The Farallone Islands. — Birds, Seals, 
and Sea Lions. — A Train of Cars. — Golden Gate and Fort 
Point. — Alcatraces Island. — Arrival in San Francisco. . 208 

CHAPTER XXI. — California. 

A Drive. — Seals. — Portuguese Men of War. — Little Birds. — 
Steamer Yo Semite. — Shipping. — St. Paul's Bay. — Suisun 
Bay. — Benicia. — Monte Diablo. — Sacramento River. — 
Arrival at Sacramento. — A Long Bridge. — Journey to Fol- 
som. — Willow Springs Mines. — Fair Grounds. — High 
Prices. — A Ride around Sacramento. — Levees. — Two 
Floods. — New Capitol. — Warm Weather. — Departure. — 
A Slough. — Watermelon Seeds. — Oakland. — A Long 
Ride. — A Fine Orchard. — Nectarines and Apricots. — 
Sailing on the Golden Age. — Farewell 217 

CHAPTER XXII.— Homeward Bound. 

At Sea again. — A Cozy Room. — A Choir. — Sermons. — 
Beautiful Evenings. — A Hurricane. — Dangers and Dis- 
comforts. — A Crash and Crashes. — " My Father rules the 
Storm." — A Meeting for Thanksgiving. — Acapulco Har- 
bor. — Arrival at Panama. — Articles for Sale. — Telegraph 
Posts. — Concrete. — " The Flower of the Holy Ghost." — 
Matachin. — Iron Bridge. — Sensitive Plant. — Steamer 
Champion. — West India Islands. — A Privateer. — Gulf 
Stream. — Lighthouses. — At Anchor. — Our Voyage End- 
ed. — A Hymn. — The Lord's Prayer in English and Ha- 
waiian 227 



The Hawaiian Islands 



i. 

gtara $M» gnrh ia %B$mbmll 

ELL us a story, aunty, — tell 
us a story," came in plead- 
ing tones from a group of 
children ; and they watched 
my face with eager eyes to 
see if I looked willing. 

" A story, children ; what 
shall it be about ? " 
" About the places you went to while you 
were gone, and the people you saw." 

" Now, aunty," said Carrie, who was one 
of the older ones, " we are going to be here 
a whole month, and if you will tell us a 

9 




10 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

story every day, we shall know all about 
your journey." 

I thought the matter over for a few min- 
utes. " Well, children," said I, " I'll make 
a bargain with you. If you will promise to 
get your work done nicely every day by 
four o'clock, I will tell you a story until tea- 
time." 

" A bargain ! a bargain ! "' shouted the 
children. 

It was winter when we went away, you 
remember, though there was no snow on 
the ground. We went on board the steam- 
er Ocean Queen, in New York, on the 12th 
of January. Uncle George went down 
with us, and what a crowd there was on the 
wharf, — men and boys, coachmen and por- 
ters ! It was some time before our carriage 
could get inside the wharf-gates, and when 
I got out, it seemed as if horses' heads were 
all about me ; but seeing Uncle George was 



FROM JVEW YORK TO ASPWWALL. 11 

not afraid, I took courage, and keeping 
close behind him, soon left the horses. I 
found the people were worse than the 
horses ; but after many jostlings and push- 
ings, I got into the saloon, safe and sound, 
all but a rent in my dress. 

Grandma and I stayed there, while grand- 

i pa and Uncle George went to look after the 
baggage. Strangers were all around us, 
and we couldn't tell who were our fellow- 

! voyagers, and who not. Soon one and 
another of our friends came to say good-by. 
It was all very much confused, and we were 
glad finally when we were actually off. 

Then I took a look at the stateroom 
where we were to spend ten nights. What 
a little box, almost too small to turn round 
i n ! — an d our berths had so little space be- 
tween them that we couldn't sit up at all. 
We went to bed early, quite disgusted 
with sea-life to begin with, and were won- 
dering how we could get along for ten days 



12 THE HA WAIIAJY ISLANDS. 

thus cooped up, with hard beds, and not 
much to eat; for we had had no dinner 
that day, when — crash ! a shock — and the 
machinery stopped! What could it bei 
Heads were popped out of staterooms, and 
" What's the matter ? " was in every mouth. 
We had run into a small schooner, which 
had imprudently tried to cross our bows. 
For an hour there was noise overhead, — 
men running across the deck ; and then all 
was still, only the thump, thump of our 
engine ; so we went to sleep, thanking our 
Heavenly Father that no worse thing bad 
happened to us. 

" Aunty," said Harry, " what became of 
the poor schooner ? " 

We gave her one of our boats, and the 
captain thought he could get her into port ; 
but she leaked badly, and I afterwards 
heard he had to run her ashore on some 
beach just out of New York. 

Next morning, in my forgetfulness, I 



FROM NEW YORK TO ASPINWALL. 13 

attempted to sit up in my berth, and gave 
my head a great bump on grandma's berth. 
On the third night out we had a heavy gale, 
and one of our sails was blown away with a 
noise like that of a cannon. 

" Aunty/' said little Alice, " do steamers 
have sails ? " 

Yes, we always had a sail on the fore- 
mast ; it steadies the ship, and if the wind is 
right helps the vessel. Almost every body 
was seasick during that gale, for it lasted 
i two days. We went scarcely a hundred 
miles, and were off Savannah when it cleared 
up. 

" Oh, I know where Savannah is," said 
Harry ; "it was in my last geography les- 
son." 

"When Sabbath came, it was very rough, 
so we could not have preaching. We sung 
a few hymns, but were rather quiet, when 
the cry, " Porpoises ! porpoises ! " made us 
run to the side of the vessel ; and sure 



14 THE HA W A II AN ISLANDS. 

enough, there was a whole school of them 
rolling along in great glee. They are light 
brown fishes, varying in shade, some four 
feef long, some less. The female and young 
keep side by side, and leap out of the water 
at the same time. They jump out of the 
white crest of one wave into the next, rac- 
ing along, seeming to try and keep up with 
the ship. It was very exciting, and the 
passengers shouted ; for, excepting a few 
birds, they were the first living thing out of 
the ship we had seen for six days. All the 
rest of that day we were running so near the 
Florida coast that we could see the green 
trees on shore. We could hardly believe 
it was mid-winter. The water looked shal- 
low, and we grazed the end of a sand-bank, 
after which they kept the vessel farther 
from the shore. We saw some great green 
sea-turtles that day ; they were about three 
feet long. Our wheel turned one over on 
his back. I wanted to watch him ; but we 
soon left him far, far behind. 



FROM NEW YORK TO ASPIMWALL. 15 

We went round by the west of Cuba, to 
keep out of the way of the pirate Alabama. 
Monday morning, about nine o'clock, we 
came in sight of a gunboat. Soon after 
1 passing her, boom ! went her cannon, and 
we came to a stand-still. She sent her boat 
with an officer, who came on board and 
: got newspapers. That gunboat is stationed 
' there to give warning of pirates, I suppose, 
and she is required to stop every vessel. 
The final excitement was left for Tuesday 
| morning, when we were near Cape San An- 
tonio, Cuba. While at breakfast, word 
came that there were two steamers ahead. 
It was whispered about that the larger was 
the Alabama ; so we all went on deck to get 
a good look. Though they showed the 
Union flag, we were rather suspicious of 
them ; and when they both started in pur- 
suit and fired their cannon, our captain 
steamed in toward the land; for if vessels 
get within three miles of a neutral shore, no 



1 6 THE HA W All AN ISLAND 8. 

hostile craft can touch them. We came to 
anchor in plain sight of Cuba's green hills, 
and waited anxiously for our pursuers, who 
had fired a second cannon. They both 
lowered a boat We feared we should see 
the rebel rag, but were joyful when our 
own stars and stripes were unrolled to the 
breeze. The vessels proved to be the Wa- 
chusett, Com. Wilkes's flag-ship, and the 
gunboat Sonoma, Capt. Stevens. So there 
ended our fright about pirates. For the 
next two days we were sailing across the 
Caribbean Sea, and on Friday, Jan. 23, 
about eight o'clock in the evening, went 
up Navy Bay to the wharf at Aspinwall. 
It was too dark to see the groves of cocoa- 
nuts on shore ; so I had to wait for my view 
of tropical trees until morning. 

There is the tea-bell ; so we shall have to 
pause here until to-morrow. 



II. 




S soon 'as the clock struck 
four, Carrie, Alice, Willie, 
and Harry reminded me of 
my promise, and having all 
finished their work, were 
ready for story Number 
Two. 

" Aunty," said Carrie, 
" Alice and I have finished our squares of 
patchwork, and Willie and Harry have 
weeded that flower-bed for grandpa; so 
you see we have done our part of the 
bargain, and now we have come for your 
part." 

I'm all ready for my part, said I. 

2 17 



18 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

Before we arrived at Aspinwall, old 
travelers told us that if we got there be- 
fore ten at night, we should have to leave 
the steamer and go to the hotels. We were, 
therefore, selfishly relieved to find that all 
the hotels had been burned to the ground 
about Christmas time. So we stayed on 
board the steamer that night, and how glad 
we were to think it was our last night there. 
We heard that the steamer upon which we 
were to embark on the other side was a 
very large one, and about five in the morn- 
ing, after a comfortless breakfast of poor 
coffee without milk, and hard bread, Ave 
turned our back on the Ocean Queen, 
without regret. A stout, half-naked negro 
shouldered our baggage, and we were 
actually treading the soil of the Isthmus of 
Darien. 

" Did he carry your trunks, aunty ? ' 
said Willie. 

Oh, no, dear, we had our trunks all 



ISTHMUS OF DARIEJST. 19 

weighed the day before. We were only 
allowed fifty pounds of baggage apiece, and 
for all over that we had to pay ten cents for 
every pound. They gave grandpa checks 
for the trunks ; so the man only took our 
bags and deck chairs. He took what we 
ourselves couldn't carry. 

On the beach near us, was the stranded 
wreck of the British ship Avon, a large, 
noble vessel, lying on her side. In a gale 
some time ago, she dragged her anchors, I 
believe, and was blown by the wind far up 
on the sand. 

It was quite a picturesque scene at the 
cars, in the early morning light. We 
passed through a small grove of cocoa-nuts. 
I really was disappointed in them; but 
these were dwarf-trees, and not good sam- 
ples. The passengers were standing in 
groups with their bags at their feet, or on 
the head of some native near by. The cars 
were before us, and native women passed 



20 THE HA WAIIAK ISLANDS. 

about with their waiters of fruit and 
cakes. They were dressed in white or 
light-colored muslin or calico skirts, 
flounced, torn, and dirty ; a white chemise, 
with a ruffle round the neck trimmed with 
lace, and a bandanna handkerchief tied 
round the head completed their toilet. In a 
picture it would look very well ; as it was, 
one dreaded too close a contact, they were 
so dirty. Some of their attitudes were very 
graceful. The men had on shirts and 
pantaloons, the former generally worn as 
a sack. After much scrambling, we were 
seated in the cars, hot and disgusted. 

" Hot, aunty, and in January too ? " said 
Carrie. 

If you look on your map, you will find 
that Aspinwall is not very far from the 
equator. They have no winter there, and 
the sun is very powerful. 

Soon after we started, all other feelings 
were lost in intense delight at the luxuriant 



ISTHMUS OF DARIEN. 21 

tropical verdure about us. Aspinwall is on 
a coral island close to the shore, and is low 
and unhealthy. The name of the island is 
Manzanilla. The natives call the town 
Colon, from Columbus or Chris to val Colon, 
as his name is in Spanish. The railroad 
was five years in being built, under almost 
unheard-of difficulties ; and any person 
going . over it might learn to appreciate 
some of them, after seeing the rich, tangled, 
luxuriant vegetation in the low, wet grounds. 
How I longed to know the names of the 
beautiful flowers fringing the road ; but no 
one could tell me. First we passed through 
a swamp of purple and white azaleas ; then 
one of snowy callas ; then near a bank 
hidden from view by heavy morning-glory 
vines in bloom, still dripping with dew. 
We saw a great many specimens of what I 
was told was the " long palm ; " it looked to 
me like a kind of brake or fern, with droop- 
ing branches twenty feet in length. There 



22 THE HA WAIIAJV ISLANDS. 

were trees with hardly a leaf; but each 
branch and twig crowned with orange- 
yellow blossoms. Again we would see a 
tree cohered with feathery, purple flowers. 
Along some parts of the way, was a pro- 
fusion of " Indian shot," so called, I sup- 
pose, because the seeds are black, hard, and 
round, looking like large shot. Here and 
there drooped a vine with brilliant scarlet 
blossoms. Once in a while we would see 
the deep green of the orange-tree, or the 
lighter foliage of the lemon, and finally a 
banana-tree, with its bunch of fruit, glad- 
dened my eyes. There were many trees 
with parasitic plants growing on them, 
looking as if ropes were hanging from them. 
It is said that if one of these groves of ferns 
on the Isthmus is cut down, in three months 
the vegetation has grown so rapidly as to 
look as if no human hand had ever inter- 
fered with them. One wanted several pairs 
of eyes to take in all the beauty of the 
scene. 




Panama Vegetation. —Page 22, 



ISTHMUS OF BARIBK. 23 

There were various way-stations upon 
the railroad, having neat white houses, with 
a piazza upon both stories. Before and 
around some of them are pretty gardens, 
with bright flowers, conspicuous among them 
being our fragrant roses, such as rarely 
bloom with us except in green-houses. We 
passed many native huts grouped in small 
villages, with their inhabitants sitting in the 
doorway or lounging about the premises, 
the children running round half naked or 
entirely so. Most of these people are freed 
Jamaica slaves. They seemed to be a happy 
but indolent race. Fruits grow about them 
with such prodigality as to require but little 
exertion to obtain the necessities of life. 
Their huts are made of bamboo rods, 
thatched with palm-leaves. 

But there is the tea-bell. 



in, 



{jsbsiuk* 

OME, come, aunty ," shouted 
Willie, " the clock has struck 
four ; so put down your sew- 
ing, and tell us about Pan- 
ama. We've finished our 
work beautifully, grandma 
says." So I began. 



When we reached Panama, about nine 
o'clock, it was very warm and sultry. 
The soil is sandy. Though the present 
city of Panama is not more than two hun- 
dred years old, it has an ancient and di- 
lapidated appearance. The climate is such 
that even the stones decay, and worms de- 
stroy the wood. The houses are all tiled 

24 




PANAMA. 25 

and look oddly enough. The tiles resemble 
the half of an earthen water-pipe, and are 
of a light brick-color. We had quite a 
laugh on the wharf at our grotesque ap- 
pearance, likening ourselves to emigrants ; 
for our bags, chairs, shawls, and umbrellas 
were all laid in a heap, and grandma and I 
sat on them, while grandpa went off to 
make arrangements for going on board the 
steamer, or spending the day in the city. 
The natives bowed before us with their bas- 
kets of fruit, which they offered for sale. 

" What fruit was it, aunty? " asked little 
Alice. 

Mangoes, pineapples, limes, oranges, and 
bananas. They had also rolls, cakes, and 
pies. Then some came with the native 
wine, and with milk and lemonade, which 
the man said was " nice lomonard ! " 

We decided to stay in Panama until after- 
noon, when a small boat would take us off 
to our noble steamship, the Constitution. 



26 THE HA WAIIA.X ISLANDS. 

We left our baggage at the station, and took 
the railway omnibus, drawn by mules, which 
were driven by a negro, up to the " first-class 
hotel, — the Aspinwall House." He took us 
a distance of half a mile, perhaps, at the 
moderate charge of fifty cents apiece ! The 
streets of Panama are very narrow, and the 
driver had to call out every once in a while 
to clear the road, so that we might pass. 
The hotel is built round a court. The par- 
lor is in the third story, and is quite com- 
fortably furnished, while from the walls 
hang oil paintings, which, with their frames, 
might in New York be worth two dollars 
and a half apiece. Two long windows 
opened out on a balcony, and commanded a 
view of the hoary tiled roofs of the city. 
There was a center-table in the room, which 
interested me much. It had pictures pasted 
under the varnish, some colored, some not. 
There was a pair of scissors, a pen, a 
needle-case, wafers, — all looking just as if 



PANAMA. 27 

you could pick them up. What a nice 
breakfast we had there ! every thing tasted 
so good on shore. 

"Aunty," said Harry, " tell us what you 
had for breakfast." 

Let me see if I can remember. First we 
had fish and eggs, with fried potatoes and 
bananas. Then we had beefsteak, coffee, 
tea, and iced claret, as it isn't safe to drink 
the water there. 

After breakfast, we sallied out to see the 
sights. We walked across the public 
square, down to the fortifications, and there 
gathered some beautiful yellow flowers, 
which I pressed. We saw plenty of natives 
in their scant dresses. One little black fel- 
low I was particularly amused with. He had 
on a little blue shirt, which his mother had 
tied up in a knot in the middle of his back ; 
and there he was enjoying his mud pies, 
and keeping his clothes clean too. We 
walked down on the beach outside the city 



28 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

walls ; for Panama is a walled town. Here 
we picked up shells on the sand. The little 
crabs were very thick, and scampered away 
from under our feet to their sandy holes, the 
opening of which looked as round and even 
as if made by a cane, —just such as I used to 
make when I was a little girl, after a hard 
rain, with the tip of my umbrella. As we 
wandered over the rocks, for it was low 
tide, we found an exquisite little natural 
aquarium, all stocked with its tiny inhabi- 
tants. It was a circular rock, with two 
irregular terraces, and at its top a little 
basin, .deep here and shallow there; its 
bottom was all covered with little spots of 
pearly whiteness, looking as if inlaid. The 
little shell-fish clung lovingly to its side; 
the crabs, in their borrowed tenements, 
crept securely about; and the funny little 
fishes darted through the cool, clear waters. 
Many a wealthy nobleman would like to 
have that treasure of nature in his warden ; 



PANAMA. . 29 

yet perhaps no human eye had ever noted 
its beauty before. 

" Aunty, what do you mean by the bor- 
rowed tenements of the crabs?" asked 
Carrie. 

There is one kind of crab that likes to 
live in a shell ; so if they find one empty, 
they take possession of it ; they are called 
" hermit crabs." We often used to pick up 
a shell with a crab in it. 

At three o'clock we went to the cathe- 
dral, which was open at that hour. The 
front of it is rather imposing ; but the doors 
are roughly boarded up, and do not look as 
well as our common barn-doors. We went 
in at a side- door. There are many shrines 
adorned with tinsel and cotton lace, but 
neither beautiful nor pleasing. There was 
a little girl, a child of one of our fellow- 
passengers, in the cathedral ; and knowing 
that grandpa was a minister, she walked up 
to him and said, " Do you preach here % " 



30 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

The chief features of interest to me were 
the pointed towers at either side of the 
front, which are roofed with pearl shells. 
Pearls of great beauty are found on various 
parts of the coast, and there are stores 
particularly devoted to the sale "of them. 
We visited the ruins of a Jesuit college, 
also the old church of San Domingo. Some 
of the arches in the latter are well pre- 
served, and are crested with beautiful shrubs 
and vines in full bloom. The natives called 
us " Americanos " as we passed. About 
four, we took our places again in the omni- 
bus, and in a little while were at the wharf, 
where we bought a supply of bananas, 
oranges, and pineapples. Embarking again 
on the little steam-tug, we enjoyed a pleasant 
sail across the Bay of Panama, with the 
city and its crumbling walls behind us. 
In about half an hour we came in sight of 
a large fleet of steamers ; for it is here the 
company keep their spare vessels. Among I 



PANAMA. 31 

them were the St. Louis, California, 
Guatemala, and our own beautiful Con- 
stitution, — larger and finer than any of the 
others, with our old voyage companions 
smiling their greetings over its side. It 
seemed a long while since we had seen 
them, and it was quite like getting home to 
have them about us. 

We lay at anchor all night, and the next 
morning, Jan. 25, at six o'clock, our Pacific 
voyage commenced. We passed in the 
bay the mountainous island Toboga, with 
a pretty little village lying snugly cradled 
at its base. From this island's cool, clear, 
springs, the drinking water of Panama, is 
obtained. 

" Don't they have wells in Panama ? ' : 
inquired Carrie. 

Yes ; but the water is brackish and 
warm. 

" What is ' brackish,' aunty % " said Alice. 
, Having a salt taste, — not pure. Our 



32 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

Constitution was very different from the 
Ocean Queen, it being very clean and 
sweet. When we went on board, the din- 
ner-table was set in the long saloon, and 
every thing looked as in our best hotels. 
We occupied a nice stateroom, having a 
French bed with curtains^ a sofa, a mirror 
on the wall, and some very convenient 
shelves. We had, also, good washing ar- 
rangements ; so that we were well settled 
for a two weeks' voyage. There were three 
waiters to each table, while there was but 
one on the other steamer. The dessert was 
prettily arranged, on tables at either end 
of the saloon. All the orders were given 
by a bell. The waiters went together to 
the dessert-tables, and each took a dish of 
pudding, or cake, or fruit and nuts, per- 
haps. The bell struck, and they moved in 
procession to their places, when at another 
signal they placed the dishes upon the table. 
Ah ! there is our bell, and we must go. 
Carrie, you may head the procession. 



IY. 

$xom Imrnma lor 5 an $XKmwtQ< 




UNTY, where are you?" 
cried little Alice, and then 
a gentle knock on my door 
reminded me that it was 
four o'clock. " "We are all 
ready waiting in the sitting- 
room, and Fanny Mason is 
there, too, because she 
wants to hear our stories. You are will- 
ing ; an't you, aunty ? " 

Oh, yes, Alice, any of your friends may 
come that wish. So I took my little pet's 
hand, and went down to my waiting group 
to tell my story. 



We had beautiful summer weather, and 

3 33 



34 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

quite forgot that it was January. On the 
29th we passed a distant volcano, and early 
in the morning saw the smoke at its summit. 
The name of the volcano is Colenso, and it 
is in Guatemala. It was first seen in the 
night, and our men sent up a rocket as a 
signal, supposing it to be the light of another 
steamer, but they soon saw their mistake. 

The coast is mountainous all the way to 
San Francisco ; we kept it in sight nearly all 
the time except when crossing the Gulfs of 
Tehuantepec and California. The sea was 
almost invariably smooth. 

We arrived at Acapulco, in Mexico, Sat- 
urday, Jan. 31, at daybreak; having sailed 
1,440 miles in six days. As grandpa and 
grandma were not going on shore, I had not 
thought of doing so ; but quite a party of 
our acquaintance went, and I was yivited to 
join them* I was glad to go ; for I longed 
to step on Mexican soil. 

We had a native boat and four rowers. 



FROM PANAMA TO SAJY FRANCISCO. 35 

The sail was a very pleasant one, and we 
were soon on the low, sandy beach. Part 
of the town was destroyed by an earthquake 
two years ago ; but the adobe houses are so 
simply constructed that they can be rebuilt 
with little difficulty. 

" What are adobe houses ] " asked Carrie. 

Houses built of hardened clay. They 
take a mold like the sides of a box with 
the bottom out, and press it full of mud ; 
when turned out, it looks like a great mud 
brick, and is left for the sun to dry. 

We went up to the market-place, where 
the Mexican women, children, and dogs were 
all huddled together, with their wares spread 
out in most tempting array ; coral, colored 
with most brilliant dyes ; shells of various 
kinds, some on long strings like necklaces, 
and some single and highly polished. Fruits 
were plenty, — bananas, granadas, oranges, 
and limes. We had our chocolate and eggs 
ordered ; but just at that moment, boom ! 



36 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

went our ship's cannon to recall us, so we 
had to go back without our breakfast ; but 
we took some beautiful flowers and a few 
shells. The forts had been bombarded bv 
the French about a month before, but looked 
as if they were little injured. The harbor 
is small, but one of the finest on the whole 
Pacific coast. The native boys swam out 
to the ship, and would dive for silver coin 
thrown to them. It was astonishing to see 
how far down in the water they would go 
for it, and almost invariably get it. Then 
they would put it in their mouths, and be 
ready for another. One boy, the quickest of 
the lot, must have had a dozen pieces in his 
mouth at one time. 

A shark and a devil-fish came near the 
ship — 

" A devil-fish! " the children all exclaimed ; 
" w%, what sort of a fish is that? " 

It is very large, having a pointed head 
with projecting fins of great breadth, trian- 



FROM PANAMA TO SAN FRANCISCO. 37 

gular and resembling wings, making the fish 
broader than it is long, even including the 
tail. The encyclopaedia says one was 
caught in the Atlantic, off Delaware Bay, in 
1823, which was so heavy as to require three 
pairs of oxen, a horse, and several men to 
drag it ashore. It weighed about five tons, 
and measured seventeen and a quarter feet 
long, and eighteen feet broad ; the skin was 
blackish-brown, and underneath, black and 
white ; its mouth was two feet nine inches 
wide, and the skull five feet. One was cap- 
tured in the harbor of Kingston on the 
island of Jamaica, which had strength 
enough to drag three or four boats fastened 
together at the rate of four miles an hour. 
The mouth of this one was four and a half 
feet wide, and three feet deep, large enough 
to contain the body of a man. 

The day after we left Acapulco was the 
Sabbath, and we had service in the saloon 
in the morning, which made it seem quite 



38 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

like a home Sabbath, and manv were de- 
lighted to have a " real Sunday." A table 
was covered with an American flag ; this was 
the pulpit. The Bible was laid on it, and 
grandpa preached. We sat around on the 
saloon sofas. The captain could not attend, 
as we were nearing the town of Manzanilla. 
Just as the sermon was finished, we stopped 
before that picturesque village. I believe 
the town proper is inland. The few houses 
on the shore looked very neat, being white- 
washed, making a very pretty contrast with 
the deep green of the lofty hills beyond. 

After two hours' sail from Manzanilla, we 
passed the wreck of the steamer Golden 
Gate, which was. burned some time since, 
causing the loss of so many lives. Vessels 
are stationed there to procure treasure from 
the wreck, and we received from them more 
than two hundred thousand dollars to carry 
to San Francisco. 

One of our officers was on the Golden 



FROM PANAMA TO SAN FRANCISCO- 39 

Gate when it was burned, and he told some 
thrilling stories of the disaster. A great 
many strong, grown people were drowned 
in the terrible surf; yet one little baby, only 
six weeks old, floated safely to the shore. 
God took care of her, you see. The men 
carried her by turns, as they walked their 
weary* w a Y over the mountains to Man- 
zanilla, and fed her with scraped potato, a 
barrel of potatoes having washed ashore. 

How many sorrowful feelings were called 
up by the sight of that one wheel lying on 
the beach ; for that is all that is left of the 
ill-fated Golden Gate! How many lives 
were lost in those peaceful waters over 
which we were sailing so pleasantly ! Our 
officers told us that it was just such a bright, 
beautiful day ; but the surf here is very high, 
and with our glass we could see it foaming 
and tossing on the beach. In our hearts 
many of us thanked God for our present 
safety, and prayed him to save us from such 



40 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

a fate. Just before we neared the wreck, 
we passed by some rocks on the coast, look- 
ing just like a ruined castle, with beautiful 
green trees all around them, as if it were a 
nobleman's garden. 

It is not easy to keep the Sabbath properly 
on one of these ocean steamers ; for little 
distinction is observed in the days by the 
crew. We did, however, the best we could. 
It seemed more like the Sabbath in the 
evening, when a goodly number of us col- 
lected together in the saloon, and sung 
hymns and tunes, just as many of us would 
have done were we in our loved homes, 
so far away. That night we commenced 
crossing the Gulf of California, and all day 
Monday we saw no land. Almost every 
evening we walked upon the upper deck, 
which was a very fine promenade three 
hundred and seventy feet long. 

Tuesday we saw Cape St. Lucas, which 
you know is the end of the long peninsula 



FROM PANAMA TO SAN FRANCISCO. 41 

of California, and were in sight of the shore 
all the way after that. I was constantly 
surprised at the grandeur of this western 
coast, with its magnificent chains of moun- 
tains, rising peak above peak, and fleecy 
clouds resting on their summits. There was 
no break in these chains all the way to San 
Francisco. I heard them called the back- 
bone of America, and they are among the 
grandest works of the Creator. After pass- 
ing Cape St. Lucas, we had colder weather. 
But I must not forget to tell you of my 
going around the ship, with the commodore, 
when he was "inspecting" it. Grandma 
was not well enough to go, but grandpa and 
I went. How I wish you could have peeped 
with me into all the cupboards and utensils, 
and have seen how neat every thing was, 
— the dishes were so white, the glasses so 
clear, and the tins so bright! The com- 
modore rubbed his fingers inside of a kettle, 
and if they were the least bit soiled, it 



42 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

would have to be done over again. On one 
shelf was a great pile of loaves of bread. 
We went into the slaughter-room, to see 
the butcher's establishment ; it was as 
clean and sweet as a kitchen. The little 
lamb, three days old, was brought out for 
my amusement, and doubtless pleased its 
mamma very much by showing off, and 
saying " baa," like a dutiful child ! What a 
funny party we were, the portly commodore 
with your small aunty leaning on his arm, 
he sliding through narrow doors sideways, 
pulling me after him ; then tall grandpa, 
and our little thin surgeon following in his 
train ! I asked the head steward to tell me 
how much he cooked every day for all on 
board. We had about five hundred pas- 
sengers, beside officers and crew. He told 
me fifty gallons of soup, fifty pounds of 
mutton, ninety pounds of pork, four hun- 
dred and seventy-five pounds of beef, sixteen 
pounds of ham, twenty-four chickens, ten 



FROM PANAMA TO SAJ\T FRAJYCISCOi 43 

turkeys, eight hundred pounds of potatoes, 
two barrels of flour, making two hundred 
and twenty-five loaves of bread, fifty pies, 
forty-five pounds of butter, five pounds 
of lard, five pounds of cheese, and ten gal- 
lons of milk. Just think what a great 
boarding-house our steamer was ! 

On the 7th of February, we entered the 
" Golden Gate " of California, and about 
four o'clock were at the wharf at San 
Francisco. 

" The Golden Gate! " said wee Alice, in 
astonishment, " They don't really have a 
golden gate ; do they ? " 

We all laughed at the little one's earnest- 
ness, and then I told her it was only a nar- 
row entrance to San Francisco Bay, perhaps 
a mile wide between the headlands. 

" Well, what do they call it so for ? " said 
she. 

I suppose because a great many who 
went to California thought they would get 



44 i THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

a great deal of gold, and as they all went 
through that narrow entrance, it was 
called the Golden Gate. 

" Supper, supper," here cried grandma. 
" Don't you hear the bell ? '' and again it 
sounded its merry summons to tea. 



Y. 




UNTY," said Willie at my 
elbow, u we are waiting 
for you. You know we 
arrived at San Francisco 
yesterday, and we want to 
hear about it now." So I 
went down to my little flock 
of listeners. 



We stayed at the " Lick House " on 
Montgomery Street, — 

" Lick House ! " cried Harry. " What a 
funny name ! What made them call it so \ " 

It was named for a Mr. Lick, who built 

it. It is a very nice hotel, and we were 

very glad to be again on land. 

45 



46 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

It took our friends but a short time to find 
out we were there ; for we received some 
calls before we had our bonnets off, and 
they continued to come until bedtime. 
Beds ! — how delightful to get into a real 
bed again after being so long in berths ; for 
though, on the Constitution, grandpa and 
grandma had a bed, I had my narrow 
shelf. 

The next day was the Sabbath. We 
attended Rev. Mr'. Lacy's church in the 
morning, and heard Rev. Mr. Bartlett of 
Santa Cruz preach. In the afternoon, we 
went out to the " Mission Dolores," to the 
installation of Rev. Mr. Beckwith. We 
were glad to arrive in California in time to 
see him installed, and it was pleasant for 
grandpa and Mr. Beckwith to meet again ; 
for the latter was once the President of 
Oahu College in the Sandwich Islands. 
All day Monday, friends came to see us, and 
were so cordial and kind that it did our 
hearts good. 



SJlJV FRAJYCISCO. 47 

Tuesday afternoon, thanks to a kind 
friend, we went to ride. How delightful it 
was to be in a carriage again, on a good 
road, with fine horses, after our imprison- 
ment on board ship ! Some of the streets 
are paved with planks, some partially so; 
others are very sandy, while some are hard 
and smooth. We rode over the hills south- 
west of San Francisco, where we got a fine 
view of the city and parts of the bay. I had 
expected to find San Francisco a level 
place ; but it is just the reverse ; for it is 
built on several very high hills. They have 
been slashed and cut into unmercifully, 
which greatly injures the looks of the older 
part of the city. We had a fast trot on the 
beach near the Ocean House. What a 
surf! White-crested billows came roaring 
and tumbling in, seeming as if ready to 
ingulf us. We passed a poor shattered 
fragment of a recent wreck, now almost 
imbedded in the sand, and it made me 



48 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

shudder to think of being wrecked on that 
cruel shore. It was a vessel but a little 
smaller than the one we were to sail in ; 
and I sent up a silent petition to our heav- 
enly Father to save us from such a calamity. 
Our good friend often stopped the carriage 
to pick us wild-flowers, which were begin- 
ning to fringe the roadside, and told us that 
only a few weeks hence these hills would 
be rainbow-hued with countless blossoms. 
Roses grow here in the gardens all the year 
round, and bouquets graced our table while 
we remained. On our way back, we rode 
through the " Mission Dolores," the seat of 
an old Catholic mission, and stopped at the 
church, an ancient looking adobe building, 
with a tiled roof like the Panama houses. 
We peeped in ; then walked through the 
burying-ground adjoining, where bloomed a 
great variety of flowers, among them some 
beautiful tea-roses. I wanted very much to 
pick just one ; but I saw a notice as I went 



SAJY FRANCISCO. 49 

in, asking us not to do so ; and I thought if 
every visitor plucked even one rose, there 
would soon be none left. Late in the even- 
ing, a beautiful bouquet was handed me, and 
beside it was one fair, white, exquisite rose- 
bud, which my kind friend said he brought 
me because I was so good at the burying- 
ground. You see how much more enjoy- 
ment I had over my beautiful flowers, 
because I refrained from despoiling the 
grave. 

The next day, February 11, we bade 
good-by to our friends, and went down to 
the wharf. Some of our fellow-voyagers still 
continued with us, going on to China, after 
leaving us at the Sandwich Islands. We 
went off in a boat to our clipper ship Archer, 
and were hoisted over the vessel's side in a 
chair, with the Union Jack wrapped round 
us. 

" What's the Union Jack ? " asked Willie. 

It is a blue flag with white stars. How 



50 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

strange it seemed! — the little boat below 
me, and the black ship's side near, while 
I went up, up, up, swung over the rail, and 
was let down on deck, landing in a group 
of my fellow-passengers. That was the 
way they all came. The wind blew hard, 
and we dragged our anchor ; so the vessel 
" dropped down," as the sailors said, to the 
lower part of the city, near Meig's wharf. 
Here we remained two days, while a storm 
raged outside the Golden Gate. 

Friday, February 13th, we started again, 
and just after the pilot left us, we were be- 
calmed on the bar, just opposite the terrible 
breakers I had seen while riding. Here we 
anchored. The sea was rough and disa- 
greeable, and our captain longed for a stiff 
breeze to take us out ; for it was not a very 
safe place to be in. Early in the night, we 
were glad to hear the chain-cable taken on 
board, and to know that we were actually 
on our voyage after so many delays. 



SAJY FRANCISCO. 51 

11 Aunty," said Carrie, " I have frequently 
read of ships ' crossing the bar ; ' what does 
it mean ] " 

There is often a place at the mouth of a 
river, or at the entrance of a harbor or bay, 
where the sand is washed up in a sort of 
bank, making the water shallow just there, 
so that large ships have to wait until high 
tide, or when the water is deepest over those 
sand-banks or bars, to come in. 

There were seventeen passengers on board ; 
hut we were not all of us on deck together for 
six days, because the sea was so very rough 
in consequence of the storm, by which we 
had been detained in San Francisco Bay. 
On the 19th of February, we got into the 
trade-winds, which gave us a steady breeze 
in the right direction, and for two days we 
had twenty-eight sails set most of the time. 
I longed to be where I could get a good 
view of the ship with so many sails out ; for 
I thought she must look finely. 



52 THE HA WAIIAJST ISLANDS. 

We had a Chinese steward on board — 

" What does a steward do on a ship?' 1 
interrupted Harry. 

He takes charge of the table and provi- 
sions, and often acts as cook. He had a hard 
time in securing the dishes ; for notwithstand- 
ing the racks, the vessel rolled so that knives 
and forks slipped off as if they had wings. 
Racks are narrow strips, an inch or two 
high, upon each edge of the table, and two 
in the middle, with about a foot's distance 
between them. These keep the dishes in 
place when it is rough. It really did seem 
as if the worst rolls came while we were at 
meals ; I suppose we noticed them more 
then. Sometimes there was a general slide, 
and the passengers would seize a tea- cup 
with one hand, or a vegetable-dish, or a 
chicken, while all held on by the table with 
the other. 

Thursday night, the 26th of February, 
found us off a headland on the island of 



SAJY FRANCISCO. 53 

Oahu, and there we spent our first quiet 
night since leaving San Francisco. There 
was a buoy near us, marking the channel. 
It looked like a square plank, and was 
anchored with a bell upon it, which, as the 
waves rolled it back and forth, tolled with 
a mournful sound. 

But there's a bell that doesn't sound 
mournful. It says, " Come to tea ! " 




VI. 

HE clock had hardly finished 
striking four, when I heard 
Harry coming up-stairs two 
at a time, and " Hurra 
for the Sandwich Islands ! " 
sounded at my door. So I 
laid down my work, and was 
soon in my usual seat. 



I had been told by some persons from 
the islands that I ' must not expect to find 
every where a green and tropical verdure ; for 
much of the country was barren, unfruitful 
lava. I was up on deck bright and early, to 
see this far-off part of the world. There 
was " Diamond Head " before me, an extinct 

54 



HONOLULU. 55 

volcanic mountain, of a sort of reddish dust- 
color, with its top fallen in, and without a tree 
or spear of grass. Ah ! I thought, with a sigh, 
if all the islands are like this, it is well to 
warn people not to expect too much. Soon 
we moved our position, and sailed toward 
the port of Honolulu. Then we neared the 
land, and the pretty little village of Waikiki, 
with its thatched cottages snugly reposing in 
a tall cocoa-nut grove ; then the green trees 
of Honolulu, and the extinct crater of the 
" Punchbowl/' its summit fallen in too. But 
a rent in its side showed us that it was bright 
and green within, forming a huge meadow 
with its ragged sides. All these opened 
before us, in delightful contrast to the deso- 
lated crater first seen. 

We passed " Telegraph Hill," and soon, in 
answer to a signal, our flags were hoisted, 
and it was known in Honolulu, that the 
clipper ship Archer, from San Francisco, 
was outside with a mail ; and in less than an 



56 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

hour the postmaster's boat was alongside. 
Mr. Whitney, the editor of the " Pacific Ad- 
vertiser," came, also, in his boat to get news 
and papers. The captain gave the passen- 
gers leave to go on shore, and stay till three 
o'clock, and most of them by the courtesy 
of Mr. Whitney went in his boat. But the 
captain claimed two good missionary ladies, 
who were on their way to Japan, and our- 
selves as his party ; so we waited until he 
was ready; then we took our seats in 
the chair, wrapped again in the Union 
Jack, and were hoisted over into the boat. 
Just as this pushed off, and we were looking 
up to the vessel's side, over which were lean- 
ing the smiling, kind-hearted sailors, the 
captain called out, " Boys, can't you give 
three cheers for the doctor ? ' : Off came 
every cap, and three rousing hurras filled the 
air, bringing tears to our eyes, through 
which we took our last look at the beautiful 
ship Archer. Then we turned with curi- 



HONOLULU. » , 57 

osity to see these islands, so new and strange. 
I was in quite a puzzle to know how we 
were going through the surf without upset- 
ting our boat, but there was a break in the 
coral reef which afforded us a safe entrance. 
On the wharf were a good many people 
watching our approach, and we recognized 
the familiar faces of some missionaries to- 
gether with those of our fellow-passengers 
who had landed before us. Many a hearty 
hand-grasp was given us as we jumped upon 
the wharf, the passengers saying " Good-by," 
and our missionary friends giving their warm 
welcomes to the islands. 

After thanking our good captain for his 
kindness to us, we rode to Rev. Mr. Clark's 
where our home was to be for a time. We 
were now actually at the end of our long 
voyage ; and we thanked our heavenly 
Father for preserving us through dangers 
seen and unseen. The house itself looked 
hospitable, — a two-story white building, with 



58 THE MA WAIIAJV ISLANDS. 

a double piazza, all covered by a vine resem- 
bling the grape, its bunches of brown seeds 
making the deception more complete. The 
doors and windows were all open. I was 
shown up to a quiet room with white curtains 
and bed-draperies, from which an open door 
led out upon the upper piazza and its green 
festoons of vine. What a relief to eyes that 
had so long gazed only on the boundless sea ! 
The missionaries had heard of the arrival 
of grandpa and grandma, and soon we were 
told there were callers below ; so down we 
went. What a scene ! enough to repay us 
for all our long journey. There were many 
whom we had known at our own house, but 
whom we never dreamed of seeing in their 
missionary home. Heart met heart then ; 
some were so happy that they cried, and 
tears were in our own eyes too. Thirty-seven 
called that day, and we were very weary 
when night dropped her curtain. Saturday 
was the same, — callers all day. 



HONOLULU. 59 

The children of missionaries on these 
islands have formed an association among 
themselves which they call the " Cousin's 
Society." There was to be a meeting of this 
society on Saturday night at Oahu College, 
Punahou ; so we all went, starting about 
dark. After driving up a winding carriage- 
road, there burst suddenly upon us a fairy 
scene. The principal building was low, 
with trees and vines about it, and it seemed 
one blaze of light. The rooms were deco- 
rated with exquisite flowers and ferns, and 
the young ladies and gentlemen were in 
their gala dresses. Forty " Cousins " were 
present that night. Grandpa made an ad- 
dress to them, after President Mills had wel- 
comed us. They edit a paper in their 
society called the " Maile Wreath." Maile 
[My-le] is a beautiful vine that grows on the 
islands, and is often used for wreaths. We 
had some fine music that evening ; for many 
of the "Cousins " sing and play beautifully. 



60 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

After we had been home awhile, about a 
dozen of these, on their return, stopped and 
serenaded us. 

The next day was the Sabbath, — our first 
Sabbath in what used to be a heathen land. 
The church-bells rung just as sweetly as in 
our beloved America, and the same stillness 
reigned throughout the town. It was like a 
home Sabbath. What a change in forty- 
three years ! We went to the mission- 
church in the morning. It is a large stone 
edifice of block coral, one hundred and forty- 
four feet long and seventy-eight wide, and 
was one of the first objects we saw after 
passing Diamond Head. It was commenced 
in 1838, and was five years in building, at a 
cost of about thirty thousand dollars. Just 
think of people, who, only twenty-five years 
before, were in the depths of heathen dark- 
ness, building such a church, and by volun- 
tary contributions too ! They had a public 
meeting, and the king subscribed three 



HONOLULU. 61 

thousand dollars, and others gave their 
pledges until the sum reached six thousand 
dollars. We should think that doing very 
well in one of our own enlightened Christian 
assemblies. Notwithstanding their poverty, 
they subscribed willingly. We, with all 
our conveniences for building, can hardly 
realize the labor bestowed on that church. 
The timber had to be cut in the mountain 
forests, and dragged by hand down to the 
coast. The stone was dug out of the coral 
reefs, and a quantity of coral had to be 
gathered and burned for lime. All this the 
people did willingly, and without pay, and 
the carpenters, and masons gave their work 
freely. It was done unto the Lord. 

In that church, which will doubtless stand 
for ages, we met a large body of natives. 
Grandpa made a speech to them which Rev. 
Mr. Clark interpreted. The church was 
very full. The natives are fond of bright 
colors, and dress in red and yellow a great 



62 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 



deal. The women's dresses are made just 
like yoke night-gowns, falling to the feet 
without being confined at the waist at all. 
The men often wear their shirts outside of 
their pantaloons like a sack, and sometimes 
a coat is put on above that, making the effect 
rather ludicrous. Bonnets the. women wear 
of all kinds, but principally small ones 
of very old styles. These were perched on 
the very top of the head, and were some- 
times trimmed with ribbons of five or six 
colors. In the afternoon we went to church 
again. The preacher was a blind native, 
Pohaku, and he preached so easily, naming 
the hymn and repeating it just as if he was 
reading it, that one would never imagine he 
was blind. 

We shook hands with four or five hundred 
natives that day, saying " aloha," which 
means " love to you," " good-will," and is 
their common salutation. They crowded 
around us, and sometimes two would get 



i 



HONOLULU. 63 

hold of my hand at once. A hand would 
come over a shoulder, another under an 
elbow, and round unheard-of corners, all 
expressing joy and friendship. 

But we must hear the rest of Honolulu 
to-morrow. 



YII 



r^fcs 



\axtohxhx tavAmttfit* 

HE first great event of the 

week was a dinner-party at 

Mr. Wyllie's, the minister of 

foreign affairs. He is a 

Scotchman, and wore his 

official badges : a broad 

blue band crossing his vest, 

with the royal coat of arms 

fastening it together on the hip just below 

the waist of his dress-coat ; also a star on 

his breast, and two long streamers of crape 

hanging from his left arm in memory of 

the young Prince of Hawaii who died last 

year. 

At either end of the dining-hall hung 

64 




HOJYOL UL U. 65 

three banners from a standard, — his Scot- 
tish manorial flags* I presume ; they gave a 
showy look to the room. On the center of 
the table was a magnificent standard of silver 
with a lovely bouquet of flowers. When 
the dessert was brought in, this was replaced 
by a branching standard filled with fruit, more 
elegant still. After the dessert, came a rich 
and chaste drinking-bowl of silver lined 
with gold, from which each was desired to 
sip a little wine to the health of Lady 
Franklin, who had once been his guest, and 
who presented him the cup. 

In the evening, about a dozen young 
people took a moonlight walk up Punch- 
bowl, the extinct volcano just back of Hono- 
lulu. It is apparently a round cone, about 
five or six hundred feet high. The side we 
ascended was steep, ragged, and rocky; but 
the view of Honolulu from that elevation is 
very fine. The taro patches were of a 

deep green, the coral reefs in the harbor 
5 



66 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

snowy white. The town with its thatched 
houses lay quiet beneath 41s, while old Dia- 
mond Head loomed up in solitary and barren 
grandeur in the distance. We had some 
fine singing from members of the party, and 
the air was so clear and the night so still 
that it was heard at a long distance. 

" Taro patches , aunty ? What are they 1 n 
Taro is a vegetable somewhat resembling 
the calla-lily, the roots of which are good 
for food. 

There are two kinds of it, — wet and dry. 
The wet is grown under water. Square beds 
are made, two or more feet deep, in which 
the taro is planted; then the water is let in 
at one end, and flows out of the other, thus 
keeping running water upon the bed all the 
time. It requires about a year for the plant 
to get its growth. The natives bake the 
root in their stone ovens, which are large 
holes in the ground. They place at the 
bottom of the oven a quantity of wood and 



HONOLULU. 67 

over it a heap of stones, which are heated 
thoroughly by the burning wood ; then the 
pig, chicken, potatoes, or whatever else they 
wish to cook, are laid on the stones, leaves 
being wrapped around them to keep them 
clean, a little water is thrown on, and the 
whole is covered with earth. The water 
comes gradually in contact with the stones, 
and is converted into steam, which, with the 
heat of the stones, in a few hours cooks the 
food. 

After the taro is baked, they peel it with 
a shell, and pound it with a stone pestle in 
wooden trays, mixing with it water ; then 
they set it away to ferment. When ready 
for use, it has a sort of lavender color, and is 
acid. They call it poi ; it tastes like yeast or 
sour flour paste, and is eaten with coarse 
salt. The natives eat with it raw fish. 
This is the favorite Hawaiian dish. 

" Raw fish, aunty ? " said Carrie. 

Yes, raw fish ; they say raw fish tastes 



68 THE HA W All AN ISLANDS. 

much better than cooked ; but I could not 
believe it. Yet we eat raw oysters ; perhaps 
that is no worse. Taro-tops are very good 
greens. The natives usually sit round a 
large calabash, and dip one, two, or three 
fingers, according to the consistency of the 
poi ; then by a peculiar movement they take 
it from the calabash, and convey it to the 
mouth. That is their favorite mode of eat- 
ing, and they say it does not taste so well 
when eaten with a spoon. 

Next morning, some native women called 
on us. There were about twenty of them. 
They were cordial and kind, and their 
" aloha " was very hearty as we shook 
hands with each. Some were fine-looking, 
tall and portly. A few could talk English 
a little. They welcomed grandpa, making 
a short speech in Hawaiian, and presented 
us with some fowls, onions, cabbages, pota- 
toes, eggs, squashes, and taro. Grandpa 
thanked them, and spoke of the interest he 



HONOLULU. 69 

and Christians in America had always felt in 
them. Mr. Clark was interpreter, and their 
faces lighted up with evident joy. 

The following day we called on Prince 
William Lunalilo, and his father Kanaina. 
Prince William is one of the highest chiefs 
in the kingdom, the rank here being deter- 
mined by the mother. In the reception- 
room was a beautiful table, inlaid with speci- 
mens of native woods. The furniture was 
covered with red plush. On the walls were 
oil paintings of the prince and his father and 
mother, taken about fifteen years ago. 

Prince William took us to the roval ceme- 
tery, a small square stone building in the 
spacious yard. In the center of the one 
room on a table, was a crimson velvet cush- 
ion trimmed with gold fringe, on which lay 
the Hawaiian crown. Unfortunately, I did 
not notice it particularly. On either side 
were enormous coffins, that of Kamehameha 
II. being the handsomest, and covered with 



70 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

a pall of green brocaded silk ; others were 
covered also with silk palls, or draped in 
black. Some of the coffins were long and 
large, the high chiefs having been, as a gen- 
eral thing, tall and stout. One could not 
help thinking that here was the end of 
earthly grandeur ; the monarch and his low- 
est subject must alike die. 

We went to a prayer-meeting at Oahu 
College, Punahou, on Wednesday night. It 
was a pleasant thing to meet with twenty or 
thirty missionary children for prayer and 
praise. 

Thursday morning we listened to some 
very creditable recitations, and examined 
some beautiful drawings by the young ladies 
and gentlemen, and after lunch heard com- 
positions, and saw the ladies practice calis- 
thenics ; all of which would have done 
honor to one of our home institutions. In 
the afternoon, we drove back to Honolulu, 
and attended a sewing-circle at the house 



HONOLULU. 71 

of one of the foreign residents. It really 
seemed like one of our home circles, the 
profusion of exquisite flowers and the ab- 
sence of our cold March weather only dis- 
pelling the illusion. We reveled in the 
lovely roses, our green-house favorites 
blooming here with such rank luxuriance. 
I saw here for the first time in my life a 
green rose. 

"Green rose?" asked little Alice. "I 
never heard of such a thing." 

Yes, a veritable green rose of just the 
same shape as the common rose, only a deep 
genuine green. It had a very odd look. 
Many of our green-house plants grow to be 
extremely large here, as there is no chilling 
wind or snow to nip their growth. 

That night our first letters came, two 
months after we left home. What joy to 
hear from the dear ones, even though the 
letters were written only a fortnight after our 
departure. It takes six weeks for letters to 
go from New York'to Honolulu. 



72 * THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

Friday morning, her majesty the queen 
gave us a private reception ; the king was 
out of town. We were notified, the day 
before, that the queen would be pleased to 
see us informally, and would send her car- 
riage for us. So at eleven o'clock a barouche 
was before the door, drawn by a span of 
dark horses. A coachman and footman in a 
livery of green and gold completed the estab- 
lishment. When we arrived at the palace 
gates, the guard opened them wide for us, 
and we passed on to the rear of the palace 
w T here was the queen's own suite of rooms. 
On the steps we were met by the minister 
of foreign affairs, who escorted us to a 
reception-room, and a few minutes later to 
the drawing-room. There we were met by 
the queen in a ladylike manner, she taking 
our hand, and expressing pleasure at meet- 
ing us. She was in deep mourning for the 
prince, her only son, who died last year. 
Her dress was black, trimmed half-way up 



HONOLULU. 73 

the skirt with a heavy fold of crape, headed 
by a box-plaiting of the same. We here 
met the Princess Victoria, a sister of the* 
king. The queen gave to each of us a lith- 
ograph likeness of the late King Kame- 
hameha III. The chancellor of the king- 
dom, Chief Justice Allen and his lady were 
present. We returned home in the queen's 
carriage. 

In the afternoon, we had a very pleasant 
dinner-party at the chief justice's. In the 
evening, I accepted an invitation to ride with 
a large party of young people, all on horse- 
back ; there were seventeen couples, com- 
posed entirely of foreigners, more than half 
of whom belonged to mission families. You 
would be amused to see the native women 
ride like the men, with a strip of bright 
calico wound round their waist and limbs, 
falling off like a skirt on each side; the 
color is usually red, or red and yellow, and 



74 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

they look decidedly gay, sitting so erect in 
the saddle, and riding at full gallop. 
> On Sabbath, morning we attended at Mr. 
Smith's church, a large square hall, with a 
thatched roof. We sat in a wealthy native 
lady's pew. It was painted a brilliant scar- 
let, and the cushion was covered with a 
striped magenta-and-yellow calico. The 
one in front of us was painted an intense 
green. Grandpa made an address during 
service, and afterward, to the children of the 
Sabbath-school. Every seat was full, and 
the people very attentive. There was an 
old native man, with only one arm, who acted 
the part of sexton, and sometimes waked 
people up. I fancy there would be fewer 
sleepers in American churches, if there was 
anybody to perform a similar office. We 
shook hands with a great many natives after 
service. They are very fond of this cere- 
mony, and we were glad to give them that 
expression of our good- will. Three of them, 



HONOL UL U. 75 

as they shook hands, left a quarter of a dol- 
lar each in mine. I could not return them, 
for that would give offense, and as I was 
unwilling to keep them, I put them into the 
missionary-box. 

To-morrow we will leave Honolulu. 



Yin. 



OME, aunty," said Willie, 
" we are all ready for our 
journey." So I began. 

We rode down to the 
steamer Kilauea about four 
o'clock Monday afternoon. 
A great crowd was on the 
wharf; among them many of our good 
friends to see us off. Indeed, we could 
not feel that we were strangers in a strange 
land. The sight of the steamer was a 
novel one ; the deck was covered with men. 
women, children, and dogs, with mats, cala- 
bashes, etc. It is quite a fashion here to 
trim the hair with flowers, and to wear them 

76 




FROM HONOLULU TO HILO. 77 

strung about the neck. Many . of these 
people were so decorated, and it made quite 
a lively scene, with their gay calico dresses. 
The women generally have their hair divided 
into two long braids behind ; these they 
bring up on the top of the head with a round 
comb, and slip the flowers in about the 
comb. 

The queen and her suite came on board 
last. She was going to join the king at 
their country-seat at Kailua, on Hawaii. A 
salute of twenty-one guns was fired by Her 
Majesty's guard, who then formed in a line 
on the wharf and gave three cheers. The 
royal company preferred to sleep on deck, 
so that nearly all who occupied the saloon 
were foreigners. 

To us Americans, it seemed a strange 
thing to have both gentlemen and ladies 
occupy the same saloon at night, and it was 
rather embarrassing to mount into an upper 
berth with half a dozen gentlemen looking 



78 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

on. But we soon became accustomed to it, 
and learned not to be alarmed at finding a 
Chinaman asleep on the transom below. 

" What is a transom, aunty ? r asked 
Harry. 

A sort of cushioned bench, running along 
both sides of the saloon just outside the 
under berths. 

At half-past four in the morning, we 
reached Lahaina, Maui. The steamer 
stopped here some hours ; so Dr. Baldwin 
came off for us, and took us to his house to 
breakfast. Many friends, new and old, 
called, and some beautiful flowers were sent 
from Lahainaluna, about two miles distant, 
where there is a seminary for native young 
men. After breakfast, a large company of 
natives escorted us to the shore, carrying 
our shawls and bags, seeming eager to do 
something for our comfort. I wanted to 
take a photograph of grandpa, as he stood 
surrounded by natives, he looked so much 
the picture of happy contentment. 



FROM HONOLULU TO HILO. 79 

On the steamer we tried our first cocoa- 
nuts. They are very different from those 
we get at home, the meat not being half so 
thick, and quite soft. There is more than 
as much again liquid, and it is sweeter, and 
colorless like water. 

A few hours' sail brought us to Kalepo- 
lepo. Rev. Mr. Alexander had ridden over 
from Wailuku, ten miles distant, and came 
on board, and stayed with us some hours 
while the steamer took on board a supply of 
wood. It was good to see his beaming face, 
and receive his cordial welcome. He gave 
me a lesson in Hawaiian. 

" What was it, aunty % " asked Willie. 

One sentence was, " He olu olu anei 
oe \ " Are you well ? You would say per- 
haps, " Aole au i ike." I don't under- 
stand. 

" How funny ! " said little Alice. 

The next morning, just before we reached 
Kailua, we discovered the king's barge, and 



80 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

in a few minutes he himself came on board 
with some of his attendants. The meeting 
between himself and his queen was affecting ; 
she, not having been to their country-seat 
since the death of the young prince, was 
quite overcome. His Majesty was dressed 
in a light mixed suit, with drab buskins 
buttoned to the knee, white boots, and a 
drab felt hat, with about fWo inches of crape 
on it. His buskins, setting off his fine form, 
gave him a very noble appearance. Indeed, 
he seemed to feel himself every inch a king. 
After the queen had become somewhat com- 
posed, he came to where we sat and, with a 
hearty shake of the hand, welcomed us to his 
country. He spoke of his visit to America, 
some years ago, and conversed very agreeably 
for some little time. At leaving us, both he 
and the queen again shook hands, with the 
same pleasant manner. 

At noon we arrived in Kealakekua Bay, 
on the west side of Hawaii, where Captain 



FROM HONOLULU TO HILO. 81 

Cook was killed. Rev. Mr. Paris was on 
the beach, with horses to take us to his 
house, about two miles distant. As the 
steamer was to remain till night, we went. 
Our landing was almost on the very spot 
where Cook was killed. Grandma and I 
donned our riding-skirts, mounted our horses 
and started on our ride. Such hills and 
roads, so dusty and steep, never before 
entered my imagination ! It was the first 
time grandma had been on a horse for forty 
years. Sometimes we were a little afraid ; 
but as our horses were not, we gathered 
courage. At times a precipice rose above 
us three or four hundred feet on one side, 
and on the other descended perhaps a hun- 
dred feet. The rock was. of lava, much 
broken, sometimes looking like the waves 
of the sea, or like a stream rolling over the 
precipice. A portion of the road was cut 
out of the side of the rock. Mrs. Paris's 
cordial greeting repaid us for our hot and 



82 THE HA WAIIAK ISLANDS. 

dusty ride. Here, for the first time, I saw 
orange-trees in full bloom. They were large 
and elegant trees, with blossoms and green 
and ripe fruit growing at the same time. 
How we enjoyed the fruit, luscious and 
juicy, and so refreshing after our ride ! The 
arbutulum grows here like a large tree, and 
blossoms profusely. In the garden we saw 
young pine-apples, green mangoes, and 
Chinese oranges, — a perfect orange in 
miniature, but acid as a lemon. 

Toward sunset, we returned to the ship. 
Darkness covered us before reaching the 
shore ; but our sure-footed horses took us 
down without a mishap. At the head of the 
bay rises a pali, or precipice, six or seven 
hundred feet high, and it is said to go down 
perpendicularly into the water perhaps as 
much more. 

On Thursday, we sailed all day along 
grand precipices rising from the ocean, 
some of them seven hundred or a thousand 



FROM HONOLULU TO HILO. 83 

feet high, with waterfalls leaping the whole 
distance, or broken into smaller cascades, 
Sometimes the streams seemed like a silver 
ribbon, bordered with green moss ; these 
steeps being generally covered with verdure. 
Here and there was a deep gorge or gulch, 
as they are there called. The first and only 
valley of importance we saw was "Waipio, 
whose sides rose exceedingly grand and 
beautiful, with zigzag mule-paths up the 
slopes. Far in the distance, amid its shad- 
ows, fell a ribbon-like cascade, said to be 
two thousand four hundred feet high ; be- 
hind it lay mountains with their summits 
resting in the clouds. A village with its 
pretty church nestled in a grove of cocoa- 
nuts on the beach. After this the pi^cipices 
grew lower and lower, until finally the scene 
changed to undulating hills, and a rain 
storm .notified us that -we were approaching 
Hilo. We reached that place about ten 
o'clock at night, .and landed through the 



84 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

surf; that is, the little boat stopped about 
fifty feet from the shore, and a man waded 
out and took grandma in his arms ; but 
there being a little delay in getting ashore, 
the wave rolled in upon her and gave her 
quite a wetting. When the man came back, 
and said, " Come, come," I started immedi- 
ately. The surf roared in the darkness, and 
I was afraid, but was very soon set down 
safely on the shore. Dr. Wetmore met us 
on the beach, and escorted us in the rain to 
Mrs. Coan's house. Mr. Coan was away 
upon a tour; but they sent a messenger af- 
ter him, and he returned home on Saturday. 

Hilo is celebrated for its heavy rains, and 
I should think also for its gigantic spiders. 
I was afraid of them, though it is said they 
are harmless unless molested. 

Sabbath we passed in the usual manner. 
Grandpa addressed the native congregation 
in the morning, and told them of his visit to 
the Holy Land. They seemed delighted to 



FROM HONOLULU TO HILO. 85 

see one who had looked upon Jerusalem, 
and walked by the shores of Gennesaret, 

There is the supper-bell ; so we must wait 
until to-morrow for another story, 



IX. 




OW, aunty, what are we to 
see today, and where are 
we to go ? " asked Willie, as 
we assembled in the sitting- 
room. 

We'll go to the volcano 
to-day, Willie, I answered. 



Tuesday morning, we started on our first 
real horseback journey. The party num- 
bered seven, — three elderly people and 
four younger ones. Two of our friends 
escorted us a few miles on our way, and 
then, as it began to rain, they turned back. 
I could think of nothing but a party of gip- 
sies, as we rode out of Mr. Coan's yard. 

86 



THE VOLCANO. 87 

You would have laughed to see our fitting 
out. Grandpa had on rubber overalls, a 
long rubber coat, and a drab felt hat tied 
upon his head. I doubt if you would have 
known him. Grandma wore a dark riding- 
skirt, an oil-cloth cape over her shoulders, 
and a felt hat, decidedly slouchy, trimmed 
with green ribbon. I had on an old drab 
skirt, my water-proof cloak, and a venerable 
straw hat trimmed with green, with a blue 
barege veil falling from its brim. The rest 
were dressed in similar style. We rode in sin- 
gle file, and the road was so bad, if road it 
could be called, that we advanced barely 
two miles an hour. Every few minutes we 
had to go up or down some steep place, 
or through mud nearly a foot deep. Swamps 
and streams alternated with our short hills. 
At length we came to a wood of tropical 
luxuriance, where the road was just a mule- 
path, the branches often meeting before our 
faces, so that we had to raise our hands to 



88 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

part them. It rained as it always does 
here. While we young people were ven- 
turing on a short canter, my saddle turned 
completely, and I landed on my feet in an 
oozy place, fortunately unhurt. A few miles 
short of the half-way house, — miles are not 
measured by feelings there, — my horse gave 
out. For some time he had w 7 alked lame in 
all his feet, and at last refused to go at all. 
One of the young gentlemen lent me his 
horse, and led mine, We reached the half- 
way house about five o'clock, wet through. 
This was a native house, the occupants of 
which at once turned out, bag and baggage, 
the latter consisting, however, of only a few 
calabashes and pillows, and removed into a 
smaller hut. We found our house neatly 
laid with mats, and looking comparatively 
inviting. The firebrands had been carried 
out, leaving only the coals in the center of 
the floor, surrounded by stones to protect 
the matting. The house was of thatched 



THE VOLCANO. ' 89 

sides and altogether looked very much like 
the native houses we saw on the Isthmus. 
We made a temporary curtain of a blan- 
ket, put on dry clothes, hanging our wet 
ones up to dry ; then laid a table-cloth on 
the matting, and from backets and cala- 
bashes brought out our dinner. Our service 
was of tin ; but we made a hearty meal, 
sitting Turk fashion on the mat. After our 
dinner and tea together, the natives came 
in, and we had prayers. Mr. Coan read a 
few verses in English and then in the na- 
tive language, which was followed by two 
prayers, one in English, the other in Ha- 
waiian, by the head of the family. We 
then lay down to sleep ; but cockroaches, 
fleas, and a strong cup of tea drove slumber 
from our eyelids, and there was more sigh- 
ing than sleep. The men who brought our 
calabashes walked or dog- trotted it all the 
way barefooted, and got on faster than we 
did. The calabashes are fastened one at 



90 % THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

each end of a pole four or five feet long, and 
the bearers don't seem to mind the weight, 
balancing them easily on their shoulders and 
carrying them safely. We never missed the 
smallest article, and nothing was injured by 
jarring. 

We mounted our horses the next morning 
with good courage, though it was dubious 
weather, and we had a long ride before us. 
After a while, we young folks headed the 
procession and cantered when we could, 
which was seldom, as a great deal of the way 
was like riding in the bed of a brook. It 
had rained so much that a puddle of water 
was met every few feet. Part of our way 
was through a beautiful growth of gigantic 
ferns, mingled with other trees. The ferns 
were of a beautiful species, growing twenty 
or more feet high, and crowned with waving 
feathery branches. Other trees had their 
bark almost hidden by velvety moss or tiny 
ferns. 



THE VOLCANO. 91 

We arrived at the volcano house wet and 
tired, about three o'clock, but were much 
comforted by the cleanly appearance of the 
house, so nicely matted were the floors, with 
a raised place for sleeping. Outside, under 
a roof like a veranda, was a blazing fire, and 
it was needed for drying our clothes, and 
sending warmth through our chilled limbs. 

We ladies retired behind our curtain, and 
soon appeared in complete Bloomer cos- 
tume. We set our table in more civilized 
style, having a rough board whereon to 
lay our cloth, while benches saved the 
necessity of our sitting again in Turk 
fashion. We rested better than the pre- 
vious night, rousing ourselves once in a 
while from our lowly matted couch to gaze 
through the mist at the light from the crater, 
which looked like an enormous fire. 

About nine the next morning, we took 
our winding way to the edge of the bluff, 
commanding a fine view of the crater ; and 



92 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

there it lay before us, a huge, blackened, 
fire-desolated gulf! Steam issued from fis- 
sures in various parts, while a dense rolling 
volume marked the place of the really burn- 
ing lake. We ladies, in our Bloomer dresses, 
— for it isn't safe to wear long skirts, — 
started down the precipice. At some of the 
steep places, our gentlemen tied ropes to the 
shrubs, and, with jumping and careful walk- 
ing, we were soon down upon the lava 
floor. 

" How did it feel to walk on the lava, 
aunty ? " said Willie. 

It seemed like walking on a snow-crust. 
Once in a while a foot would sink through, 
and this at first alarmed us ; but we soon 
got used to it. There were many deep fis- 
sures in the lava, from some of which issued 
steam ; these we used to jump over. 

" How wide were they ? " asked Harry. 

One or two feet wide ; and no one knows 
how deep. Mr. Coan seemed to think that 



THE VOLCANO. 93 

forty feet below us might be liquid lava. 
The lava had flowed in countless shapes and 
ways. Sometimes it had hardened in circles, 
or parts of a circle, or it was all crumbled 
and broken. This last they call a-a [ah-ah]. 
Often a piece of the thin crust cracked 
under our footsteps, and turning it over, there 
would be upon the under surface all the 
colors of the rainbow. 

After a walk of two and a half miles, we 
came to what is called the " blow hole," 
where steam rushes out with great force 
and a loud report, like many factory pipes. 
It seemed as if some angry goddess dwelt 
below, whom we had insulted by coming 
into her domains, and that she was belching 
out her fierce anger, and vowing vengeance. 

But the final wonder was when the fiery 
gulf came into view. It must have been 
half a mile square, and was about fifty feet 
below the level of where we stood. It was 
boiling up all over its lead- colored surface. 



94 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

Toward the center, it would blacken over, 
and the blacker it grew, the more intently 
we watched, until finally it rose in a huge 
dome thousands of tons in weight, red and 
fiery, and fell as suddenly. It was so hot, 
that we had to cover our faces or turn away. 
There were several red-hot fountains in 
various parts of the lake, throwing up jets 
of lava. One was near a shallow cave, from 
the edges of which, the lava hung in beauti- 
ful flame-colored stalactites. 

" What are stalactites ? " asked little 
Alice. 

An icicle is a stalactite of frozen water ; 
these were of lava, shaped just like large 
icicles. 

All the while, the lake was boiling up in 
some places, and wrinkling and folding over 
at the edges. It was a terrible and ex- 
citing sight. One of the party would shout, 
66 There, there, the boiler is going to throw 
up now ! " and as it rose into the air, a 



THE VOLCANO. 95 

grand chorus of " There ! "■ would announce 
the end of that discharge. It is impossible 
to describe to you the grandeur of the 
scene. It is one of God's most wonderful 
works. We felt weak and powerless before 
it. 

We took our lunch on the shore of this 
fiery lake, and afterwards spent an hour in 
gathering specimens of the different kinds 
of lava. 

Not far from the lake is a peak of lava 
which is called the " Gothic Cathedral " from 
its shape. Some of the party passed by a 
block looking like a lion. There were huge 
fields of " a-a " where the lava was thrown 
up into rough heaps, as if some one had 
tried to knead up blocks a foot square, and 
given it up as a bad job. We walked nearly 
six miles in the crater, going and coming, 
which will give you an idea of its size. It 
is nine miles in circumference. Our young 
gentlemen we -left behind, as they had 



96 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

discovered a new cave where they could 
see many valuable specimens. When we 
reached the house, we were wet and tired ; 
for it rained while we were in the crater, 
and we had to change our clothes,, We 
ladies saw the yellow sulphur beds in the 
distance, but were too weary to visit them. 

During our absence, the native men had 
gathered a quantity of ohelo berries, resem- 
bling cranberries, but tasting like blueberries, 
not so sweet perhaps, but like them seed- 
less ; they were very nice with sugar, so we 
added them to our bill of fare. Remind me 
of those berries to-morrow, and I'll tell you 
a story about them. 

Now for supper. 



X. 



S I entered the sitting-room, 
I was greeted by a chorus 
of voices saying, " Aunty, 
the berries, you know ! " 
So I began. 

A good while ago, when 
the missionaries first went 
to the Hawaiian Islands, a princess lived 
there named Kapiolani, the daughter of 
Keawemauhili. She was a portly per- 
son, as most in high rank were, having 
an engaging countenance, a keen black 
eye, and black hair put up by a comb. 
She dressed in a civilized fashion, and used 

chairs and tables. Her husband's name was 
7 ' . 97 




98 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS, 

Naihe. In the year 1825, only five years 
after the mission was commenced, Kapiolani 
was living at Kaawaloa. Many of her 
countrymen still supposed that the volcano 
was the abode of a powerful goddess, whose 
name was Pele. They were very super- 
stitious, and reverenced and feared to anger 
this goddess. 

Kapiolani had become a Christian, and 
felt sorry for her poor people who were still 
in the darkness of paganism, and determined 
to break the spell that bound them. So she 
announced her intention to visit the crater 
of Kilauea, and call upon the goddess to do 
her worst. Her husband and many others 
endeavored to dissuade her, but she was 
not to be moved from her purpose. She 
traveled, mostly on foot, over a rough and 
desolate road, a distance of about a hundred 
miles. 

As she drew near the volcano, she was 
met by one who claimed to be a prophetess 



A STORY ABOUT KAPIOLANI. 99 

of Pele, and threatened her with the dis- 
pleasure of the goddess, should she come 
into her domains on this hostile errand. 
She was told that she would certainly perish 
if she went to the crater. Kapiolani disre- 
garded the impostor, and went on. Those 
ohelo berries which I spoke of in my last 
story were sacred to Pele, and no one dared 
to eat them unless they had first offered some 
to the goddess. But Kapiolani gathered 
and ate them. " She and her company of 
about eighty," said Mr. Bingham, " accom- 
panied by a missionary, descended from the 
rim of the crater to the black ledge. There, 
in full view of the terrific panorama before 
them, she threw in the berries, and calmly 
addressed the company thus : ; Jehovah is 
my God. He kindled these fires. I fear 
not Pele. If I perish by the anger of Pele, 
then you may fear the power of Pele ; but 
if I trust in Jehovah, and he shall save me 
from the wrath of Pele when I break through 



100 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

her tabus, then you must fear and serve the 
Lord Jehovah. All the gods of Hawaii are 
vain. Great is the goodness of Jehovah in 
sending missionaries to turn us from these 
vanities to the living God and the way of 
righteousness ! ' " Then amid the horrid 
belching and bellowing of the crater, they 
sung a hymn of praise, and prayed to the 
God of heaven and earth. 

Now wasn't it a grand, a noble thing for 
this woman, who had been educated in the 
grossest idolatry, who had only heard of the 
true God within a very few years, thus to 
come out and defy her nation's deity, this 
Pele % Why, even we, brought up in the 
light and power of the gospel, could not 
wonder that those benighted savages feared 
and worshiped. We silently thanked God 
in our hearts, that we knew him as our 
Creator and the Maker of this wonderful 
volcano, instead of a wicked, revengeful 
heathen god. 



A STORY ABOUT KAP10LAJYL 101 

" You spoke of Pele's tabus ; what is a 
tabu, aunty ] " said Carrie. 

Anything forbidden by their law or cus- 
toms was called " tabu." 

Now we will go back to our journey. 
The day after we descended the crater, we 
started for the half-way house on our return. 
It was a dreary, rainy morning, but cleared 
up soon, though no sun was visible. The 
roads were dryer, and we young people can- 
tered off, leaving the more staid portion of 
the party behind; and reached our rest- 
ing-place two hours or more before the others, 
and before our native men too. We were 
hungry, but our calabashes of food were far 
behind us, so we fell to decorating the house, 
in order to occupy our time. It was a sim- 
ple thatched hut, with no windows and only 
one door. We built an arch over the door- 
way of two gigantic -ferns, with a bouquet of 
red roses in the center, and made thence a 
continuous wreath of ferns and red leaves to 



102 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

the end of the house, and down to the 
ground each side. The bright red leaves 
were brought us by the little kanaka [native] 
children. Inside, opposite the door, we made 
another arch, and twined a wreath around 
the center pole supporting the roof Our 
native men, as they entered, exclaimed 
" nani," handsome, or " maikai," good. And 
Mr. Coan's face, as he came up the hill, 
smiled approval. It really had entirely 
transformed the dingy hut into quite a fairy 
bower. All night, fleas and cockroaches 
disputed with us for its possession, and we 
rose in the morning, unrefreshed, to a day's 
ride in the rain. The road was worse than 
on the day we first came over it. It had 
stormed incessantly, the streams were swol- 
len, the mud was deeper, and our horses 
stiff and weary, not to mention ourselves as 
in the same predicament. At times it rained 
so hard that our horses turned their backs to 
it, and refused to move, and there we had to 



A STORY ABOUT KAP10LAJVI. 103 

sit until the violence of the shower was over. 
We often waded through streams up to. the 
saddle-girth. Part of the way, the road was 
made of the trunks of fern-trees laid cross- 
wise, not more than two or three feet broad. 
They were worn and broken, and in some 
places decayed entirely away. We consid- 
ered it, however, a good road, and cantered 
over it, our sure-footed horses never once 
stumbling. Glad indeed, were we, to see 
the white spire of the Hilo church, and more 
glad to reach Mr. Coan's hospitable house, 
where hot baths and a good dinner in some 
degree enlivened us. Grandma was tired, 
but a night and day's rest made her quite 
herself again. We felt amply repaid for 
any amount of fatigue or discomfort, by our 
view of the crater and~buining lake. It was 
a scene for a lifetime ; no pen could describe 
it, no pencil portray it ; one must see it 
with one's own eyes, to appreciate its won- 
ders. God alone could create it ; and his 



104 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

power only could say to this surging, fiery 
torrent, " Thus far shalt thou come, and no 
farther.' 7 

March 24th, we took the steamer Kilauea. 
It rained as we sailed out of the bay, — By- 
ron's Bay as it is called. The surf rolls in 
here terrifically, and beats upon the shore 
with an incessant booming sound. The 
view of Hilo, as you enter the bay, is said to 
be very fine ; but we were so unfortunate as 
to come in, in the night, and to go out in a 
rain-storm. The natives play in the surf a 
great deal. They have what is called a surf- 
board, perhaps four or five feet long. With 
this board, they swim out perhaps a mile, 
and then lying on it, ride in on the top of 
the surf-billows, I was sorry not to see this 
amusement ; but the little children, with 
their small boards, I often saw trying to 
imitate their elders. 

" Don't they ever get hurt, aunty ? " asked 
little Alice. 



A STORY ABOUT KAPIOLAJSTL 105 

Not often. The natives are perfectly 
at home in the water, and can swim long 
distances. The women are about as good 
swimmers as the men. 

Ah, the bell ! the bell ! we mustn't keep 
grandpa waiting. 



XI. 




T half-past six in the morn- 
ing, we landed in Kau, — 
that is grandpa and I did ; 
grandma went on in the 
steamer to Kealakekua Bay. 
Rev. Mr. Guliek met us 
as we stepped on shore. 
Horses were in waiting, and 
we were soon in the saddle ready for our 
seven miles' ride to Waiohinu. Mr. and 
Mrs. Guliek have here a boarding-school for 
native girls. They had nine pupils of vari- 
ous shades and sizes. Some of them seemed 
very bright and intelligent, and were quick 
and handy about their work. Beside their 

106 



1% 




THE LORD'S PRAYER IN ENGLISH. 



Our Father which art in heaven, Hallowed 
be thy name. Thy kingdom come. Thy will 
be done in earth as it is in heaven. Give us 
this day our daily bread ; and forgive us our 
debts as we forgive our debtors. And lead 
us not into temptation; but deliver us from 
evil. For thine is the kingdom, and the power, 
and the glory, for ever. Amen. 




THE LORD'S PRAYER IN HAWAIIAN. 
E ko makou Makua iloko o ka lani, e hoa 
noia kou inoa. E hiki mai kou Aupuni : e 
malamaia kou makemake ma ka honua nei, e 
like me ia i malamaia ma ka lani la. E haawi 
mai ia makou i keia la i ai na makou no neia 
la : e kala mai hoi ia makou i ka makou 
lawehala ana, me makou e kala nei i ka poe i 
lawehala i ka makou. Mai hookuu oe ia 
makou i ka hoowalewaleia mai : e hoopakele 
no nae ia makou i ka ino ; no ka mea ? nou ke 
Aupuni, a me ka mana, a me ka hoonaniia, a 
man soa aku. Amene. 



A JOURNEY TO KAAWALOA. 107 

studies, they are beginning to learn to make 
their own clothes and to do housework. 

Sabbath morning we visited the Sabbath- 
school. As we entered, the children were 
singing in Hawaiian the hymn, " I want to 
be an Angel," and soon after " I have a 
Father in the Promised Land," both of them 
to the familiar tunes the children sing with 
us. It quite carried me back in association 
to our home Sabbath-schools. The Ha- 
waiians love to sing, and the children sing 
with all their hearts, just as our children 
do. 

Grandpa gave them a short talk, and then 
we went into the church, and he addressed 
the native congregation, — an intelligent and 
well-dressed body of men and women. The 
Hawaiians as a race are excessively fond of 
flowers. Some of the girls wore wreaths of 
rosebuds round their necks ; some had 
flowers in their hair, and others held a few 
in their hands. The judge of the district, 



108 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

who had a little daughter in Mr. Gu- 
lick's school, brought her a wand of roses, 
wreathed round a stick, which he handed 
to her with a smile as she came into church. 

In the afternoon, grandpa preached to 
the foreign residents. Every white person 
but one in the district was present, making 
sixteen in all including ourselves. There 
were only four ladies, most of the men 
having native wives. The shoemaker, the 
blacksmith, the missionary, the planter, all 
met in that little parlor, to hear a sermon in 
their native tongue. It made no difference 
what was their religious belief ; they came 
dressed in their best, and some of them 
joined in singing the hymns, the tunes 
doubtless familiar to them long ago, before 
they left their father's roof. 

Monday morning we started on our jour- 
ney across the island, to where grandma 
was staying. Our baggage was packed on 
a mule, and the saddle-bags filled with our 
eatables. 



A JOURNEY TO KJLAWALOJl. 109 

" What are saddle-lags ? " asked Willie. 

They are two bags fastened on a broad 
strip of leather, made to fit on the back part 
of a saddle, so arranged that a bag will 
hang on each side of. the horse, the two 
thus balancing each other. 

Mr. Gulick accompanied us, and quite a 
number of natives traveled a part of the 
way. We started in a rain ; six or seven 
miles of the road were good ; the rest was 
bad enough to make up for it. The first 
half-day we passed over that kind of lava 
called " a-a," the whole tract, as far as the 
eye could reach, looking as if a mountain of 
lava had been thrown thousands of feet in 
the air, and fallen, crumbled and broken, into 
irregular ridges and heaps, blackened and 
barren. In riding, we passed over an apol- 
ogy for a road, reminding me of our Ameri- 
can roads when filled in with broken stone 
before being covered with the gravel. Some 
of the ridges were fearfully steep and jagged. 



110 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

Here it seeded as if — as a friend remarked 
— "we were out of sight of land." Hardly 
a bush or tree was to be seen. I never 
knew the meaning of desolation before. 
"We grew weary of the dull black scene, and 
it rained and rained, but we kept on, up one 
steep place and down another. The last 
part of our day's ride was through woods, 
over hard lava, which they call " pahoihoi ; " 
but it was along a mountain side, and the 
same steep ridges followed us. Darkness 
came just as we neared the native village 
where we were to spend the night. We 
had passed over a hard road of thirty-five 
miles, and been ten hours in the saddle. 
We were, of course, not sorry to dismount, 
which we did at the largest native house. 
The man of the house was down at the 
sea-shore ; the family were of course not 
expecting foreigners. In the center of the 
house was a fire of glowing coals, and near 
it sat an old woman stringing candle-nuts 



A JOURNEY TO KAAWALOA. Ill 

upon a cocoa-nut fiber, which were their only 
lamps. 

" What are candle-nuts ? " asked the chil- 
dren. 

They grow on a beautiful tree called 
"kukui," or candle-nut tree. The nuts are 
about the size of a walnut, and are so oily 
as to burn quite well. 

Some one went over to the church, a sim- 
ple thatched house like the rest, and brought 
us the only two chairs the village possessed. 
We set out our simple meal on the mat, and 
by twos and threes the natives dropped in to 
see us, bringing children and babies ; so^that 
by the time our supper was over, almost all 
the village were present to see the " houris " 
or foreigners. After we had finished, we 
had family worship, Mr. Gulick acting as 
interpreter. Then Mr. G. asked where we 
were to sleep. Our landlord and his wife 
had one corner of the room, another man 
and his wife another corner, our native men 



112 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

a third, and we the fourth. Learning that 
our shawls were wet, the son brought out a 
large bed tapa for our covering. Taking 
our bags for pillows, we lay down to rest, — 
sleep, I can not say, for fleas and cockroaches 
were too abundant to permit this. 

" What is tapa, aunty ? " asked Willie. 

Tapa is their native cloth made from the 
bark of trees. They take the inner part of 
the bark, I believe, and beat it with mallets 
of very hard wood until it is soft and flexi- 
ble, wetting the bark from time to time. It 
looks like a kind of paper, rather than cloth. 
These cloths the natives dye with various 
colors, in patterns to suit their own fancy. 
The bed tapas are from three to five large 
sheets placed one above another, and are 
very warm and comfortable. 

Early next morning, we started on our 
journey through field and forest, and reached 
Mr. Paris's house about half-past two, hav- 
ing accomplished our journey of sixty miles 



A JOURNEY TO KAAWALOA. 113 

in eighteen hours. We were cordially wel- 
comed by the family, and were glad indeed 
to be with grandma again. 

We walked one evening to the house 
near by, where Kapiolani and her husband 
Naihe lived. You remember Kapiolani 
was the brave princess I told you of. It 
was a stone house, built of solid coral rocks, 
the *walls three feet thick, and is on an emi- 
nence commanding a fine view of the sea. 
No one was now living in the house ; but 
quite a number of little kittens, wild as they 
could be, scampered in terror from room to 
room, as we went through the apartments. 

Next morning, Mr. Paris took us out to 
ride. We visited a native church about two 
miles from his house, a pretty stone building, 
nicely finished off inside with koa wood, 
much resembling mahogany. The horse 
grandpa rode was a handsome black fellow ; 
mine was a large sorrel called Bonaparte. 
Both horses had a decided aversion to going 

8 



114 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

through puddles of water. Bonaparte had 
been broken in by a native, who hurt him 
about the head, after which, he had a great 
antipathy to natives ; indeed, he had a dis- 
like to any strangers. After a time, he got 
to know me ; but if a native tried to touch 
him, he became almost frantic. He was a 
very easy horse for riding, and I became 
quite fond of him, and used to feed and give 
him water. One day we were all out rid- 
ing, and as we came toward the house, I gal- 
loped into the yard and dismounted on the 
stone wall, which we used as a horse-block. 
They called to me that they were going on, 
so, as I had the bridle in my hand, I pre- 
pared to mount, when a good native deacon 
came forward to help me. The horse's nos- 
trils dilated, and he plunged about almost 
drawing me off the wall, and was the per- 
fect image of anger. I succeeded in making 
the good man understand that he must go 
away, then talked soothingly to the horse, 



A JOURNEY TO KAAWALOA. 115 

patted his head gently, and finally, as he 
came near enough, threw myself into the 
saddle, and had a good ride. Now you see, 
children, what kindness can do. If I had 
ever been rough with the horse, or unkind 
to him, he would not have had such confi- 
dence in me, and I could not have soothed 
him down, and so should have lost my 
ride. 



XII. 



Y little flock of listeners 
were sure to get their 
work done punctually by 
four o'clock, thus ful- 
filling their part of the 
bargain, and used laugh- 
ingly to talk about their 
travels, making believe 
that they were journeying, as I told them 
what I saw and had passed through. 




On Saturday, April 4, Mr. Paris, grand- 
pa, and I, started off on a long ride, to visit 
Hoonaunau, the city of refuge, a place to 
which people could flee, if they had com- 
mitted any crime, or displeased any chief, 

116 



KAAWALOA. 117 

and be protected by the priests. This was 
in old pagan times ; they are not used for 
that purpose now. 

" Aunty," asked Carrie, " didn't they have 
such cities in Old Testament times % " 

Yes, dear, they did. You may get your 
Bible and turn to Numbers xxxv : vi. and 
read the passage to us. 

" And among the cities which ye shall 
give unto the Levites, there shall be six 
cities for refuge, which ye shall appoint for 
the man-slayer, that he may flee thither." 

It seems singular that this heathen peo- 
ple should have a custom like that sanc- 
tioned by God through Moses in the Old 
Testament days ; but so it was. This city 
of refuge was a " heiau," or heathen temple. 
It has a massive stone wall varying from six 
to ten feet in hight, and as many feet in 
thickness, inclosing a large space of ground, 
and having, of course, no roof. The sea 
washes its base on one side. Here we saw 



118 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

a rock, under which Kaahumanu, the favor- 
ite wife of the great conqueror Kameham- 
eha I., is said to have hid herself when her 
royal husband was angry with her. It is 
called by her name. 

" Did the king have more than one 
wife ? " asked Harry. 

Yes, almost every chief had several, if he 
could afford it. But now that they are a 
Christianized people it is different. 

We stood on the altar where human sacri- 
fices had been offered. It was hard to be- 
lieve that such a quiet place was ever used 
for so dreadful a purpose. 

We saw a flat rock, on which one of the 
great chiefs was said to have rested while 
his subjects were fishing. The native story 
is, that the chief was so tall that his feet 
hung over one end, and his head the other. 
The stone was fourteen feet long ! 

" Aunty," said little Alice, " it wasn't a 
true story ; was it ? " 



KJLAWJLLOA. 119 

No, Alice ; but probably be was a very 
tall man. 

We passed over tbe battle-field of Kaei, 
the scene of the last great fight on Hawaii, 
which placed the island under the rule of 
Kamehameha II. 

About half a mile beyond the City of 
Eefuge is a high bluff, over which are solid 
lava falls, looking just like a waterfall, only 
black. They are hundreds of feet broad and 
more than a hundred feet high. You can 
walk between the bluff and the fall, and look 
up a hundred feet. We went into a cave, 
which is an eighth of a mile deep, leading to 
the sea. It probably was once a channel 
through which a lava stream flowed into the 
ocean. 

Coming back we rode into the village of 
Kealakekua, and went to the spot where 
Cap tarn Cook was worshiped, and^had sacri- 
fices offered to him. Just think how wicked 



120 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

it was in him to allow those poor ignorant 
natives to believe he was a god, and to 
receive offerings and sacrifices as such ! It 
must have been very displeasing in the sight 
of God to have a man brought up in a 
Christian land do such a thing. It was only 
a little while after, across the bay in sight of 
that very place, that he lost his life. We 
saw two cocoa-nut trees with their trunks 
perforated by cannon-balls which were fired 
from Cook's ship. 

The next day we attended the native 
church at Kealakekua, and saw their man- 
ner of collecting monthly concert money. 
One or two deacons, or " lunas " as they call 
them, sit at a table in front of the pulpit, and 
the people bring up their gifts. Three old 
men had no money, and brought, respective- 
ly, a broom, some dried fish, and two fowls. 
The fowls amused me very much. They 
had their feet tied together, and occasionally 



KAAWALOJL. 121 

fluttered their wings and clucked during 
the sermon. One of the hens, I have since 
learned, was of Japanese breed. All her 
feathers curled up the wrong way, making 
her look as if she had been out in a gale of 
wind. 

Monday we rode down to Kaawaloa, stood 
on the rock where Cook fell, gathered some 
coral where his boat rested, and walked 
over the stones where he led the king when 
endeavoring to take him as a hostage. 

" What did they want him for % " asked 
Harry. 

The natives had stolen a boat from Captain 
Cook, and the latter was taking their king 
to the ship to keep him there until the boat 
should be brought back. The natives could 
not bring the boat back, because they had 
already broken it up to get the iron in it ; 
and they were not willing their king should 
be taken away. So one of the chiefs seized 
Cook roughly by the shoulder, and held him 



122 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

so painfully that he cried out. The people 
said, " Can a god groan % Is a god afraid ? " 
Their belief that he was a god was broken, 
and he was immediately killed. We went 
into the king's house, which is still standing, 
and saw some beautiful matting lining the 
walls, taking the place of our house paper. 
It was woven in figures. We sat down on 
a board, and drank some young cocoa-nut 
milk from trees which existed in Captain 
Cook's time, and now shade the spot. Near 
the shore is a dead trunk of a tree about 
three feet high, on which several plates of 
copper, inscribed to the memory of Captain 
Cook, have been nailed by officers of British 
men-of-war. Not a very sumptuous monu- 
ment this ! On one side of the road, about 
half a mile above the beach, is a pillar of 
wood erected on a heap of rough lava. On 
this is a small plate, bearing this inscrip- 
tion : — 



KAAWALOA. 123 

En fHemorg 

OF 

CAPTAIN JAMES COOK, E.N. , 

WHO DISCOVERED THESE ISLANDS, 
m 

THE YEAR OF OUR LORD 

1778, 

THIS HUMBLE MONUMENT IS ERECTED BY 

HIS FELLOW COUNTRYMEN, IN 

THE YEAR OF OUR LORD 

1825. 

Captain Cook named the group of islands 
from his patron, the Earl of Sandwich. The 
natives always call them Hawaiian Islands, 
or as they say, " Hawaii Nei ! " 

This portion of Hawaii is the orange dis- 
trict, and we had delicious oranges every 
day. It seemed sometimes as if the fruit, 
after peeling, would drop to pieces in our 
hands, from very juiciness. 

" Oh, how I wish I had some ! " said 
Harry. 

This is a bread-fruit country too. We 
didn't learn to love that fruit. We some- 



/ 
124 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 



times had it baked for dinner. I think it is 
never eaten uncooked. The tree is fine- 
looking ; its leaves are large, and of a very 
brilliant green. The fruit is round, has a 
rough outside, and to me seemed rather 
mealy and tasteless. 

" How large is it ! " asked Carrie. 

About the size of a cantelope-melon. 

We tasted here, too, the root of the ti [te] 
plant. It was baked, and when sent in it 
was still hot. It looked like brown-bread, 
only finer grained, and when shaved off in 
slices had a very sweet and not unpleasant 
taste. Many of the natives are quite fond 
of it. The plant has a small trunk four or 
five feet high, surmounted with a tuft of 
leaves resembling corn-leaves. In various 
parts of the islands, when there is a scarcity 
of food, the natives eat the root of the fern- 
tree, baked. It reminded me in appearance 
of tobacco, was tasteless, and uninviting in 
its looks ; but I saw native men cut off great 



KAAWALOJL. 125 

slices of it, which they ate as if they liked 
it. But as I told you before, their favorite 
food is poi, and, with a good supply of that 
and raw fish, a native is as happy as a plenty 
of good food can make him. 

We saw here for the first time enormous 
cockroaches. They came out after a rain, 
and were very annoying, as all large bugs 
are that can fly or run fast. One night I 
killed seven in my room. If I left one dead 
on the floor overnight, in the morning it 
would be surrounded by hundreds of small 
brown ants. It was really very interesting 
to watch the little creatures. They would 
saw off a leg, or a part of one, then several 
of them would drag it away to their hiding- 
place ; and, piecemeal, they would, if given 
time, carry off the cockroach, leaving not a 
particle. Now there is a lesson for you, 
children. 

Perhaps you have something to do. It 
may seem like a mountain, as you look at it ; 



126 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

but if you work diligently, doing perhaps 
only a little at a time, it will grow less and 
less until it is all done ; and as you look back 
upon it, you will be astonished to think how 
easily you have done it. 



XIII. 

UNTY," said Carrie, as I 
came into the room, at four 
o'clock the next day, " we 
have been calling ourselves 
little ants all day to-day, we 
have been so busy ; but 
now we have finished our 
work, and are all ready." 
So I resumed my story. 

On Saturday, April 11, we left Kaawaloa, 

after a very pleasant visit of two weeks, 

starting about nine o'clock on our twelve 

miles' ride to Kailua. Mr. Paris's family and 

grandma were in a carriage, which some 

friends had given Mrs. P., and grandpa and 

127 




128 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

I were on horseback. I had mv horse 



Bonaparte. The road was good most of 
the way ; no carriage had ever traveled the 
whole length of it before. Part of the way 
was down the mountain, and when about 
half-way to the foot, a part of the carriage 
broke. We all dismounted and took a 
lunch, then, with some leather, Mr. Paris 
bound up the broken place firmly, and we 
went on our way rejoicing that no worse 
thing had befallen us ; for we were far 
away from any house, and had still half of 
our journey to perform, and this being the 
only carriage on that part of the island, no 
native knew how to repair it. On reaching 
the sea-shore, we passed through a grove of 
cocoa-nut trees. Here we drank some 
delicious cocoa-nut milk, and quite a group 
of natives gathered about us, and shook 
hands. The Hawaiians as a race are very 
fond of shaking hands. As the shake of 
the hand, saying " aloha," love to you, was 




Cathedral of Kilauea. — Page 95. 




Pahoihoi. — Page 129. 



KAILUA. 129 

often our only mode of expressing our inter- 
est, we were very particular to do it. 

After leaving the grove, the path lay 
between two stone walls, so near together 
that it seemed impossible for the carriage to 
go through. Our .native friends said among 
themselves "pilikia ! " trouble ; for there was 
no other road for the carriage. But the 
carriage did pass, the wheels just grazing 
the stones. How glad we were, and the 
natives exclaimed, " maikai ! " good. 

We saw a great deal of rough hard lava, 
called " pahoihoi," and prickly pear-trees 
grew in abundance. They were large, ugly 
plants. Grandma gave me one of their 
flowers which looks like a cactus-blossom. 
I had on a heavy buckskin glove, and this 
was filled with small barbed thorns, which, 
before I knew it, had worked through into 
my hand, as I held the rein. They caused 
no little pain, but were so small and color- 
less that you could not see them. In some 

N 9 



130 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

places the people use the prickly pear as 
hedges, which are unsightly but very strong. 
We often saw the century-plant while on the 
islands, which, it has been said, blooms only 
once in one hundred years ; but in fact it 
blossoms at least once in twenty-five years. 
The stalk of the flower grows very rapidly. 
Some of these stalks are twenty or thirty 
feet high. I examined one which seemed 
to be casting its blossoms ; they looked like 
small bulbs just sprouting. If these are 
planted, they will grow, and this is the way 
the plant is propagated. 

We were amused at the excitement of 
many of the natives about the carriage. A 
great number of them had never seen one 
before. Whole families turned out, men, 
women, and children, just as people in our 
own land once did to see a railroad car, or 
as they do now to see a caravan with ele- 
phants and camels. Horses and mules all 
along the road became unmanageable. They 



KAILUA. 131 

would turn and look, with dilated nostrils 
and head erect, while trembling in every 
limb, till the carriage almost reached them, 
then they would break from their fastenings 
and gallop off, neighing with fear. Then 
they would turn and look till we nearly 
reached them again, when they darted away 
as before. 

We reached the house of Mr. Thurston, 
at Kailua, about three o'clock in the after- 
noon. It had a very desolate look, for it 
had been locked up for a year. The vener- 
able missionaries were then in California, on 
account of the failure of Mr. T.'s health. 
There was no white face to greet us, as at 
the other mission-stations, so we made our- 
selves as comfortable as possible. Several 
natives called to see us, and a venerable 
deacon sent us two fowls, some very fine 
watermelons, and * sweet potatoes. The 
melons were delicious, the soil of this part 
of the islands being well adapted to them. 



132 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

Watermelons are even sent to the San Fran- 
cisco market. 

The next day was Sabbath, the 12th of 
April, the forty-third anniversary of the 
missionaries first landing on these islands, 
which occurred on this very spot. We were 
interested in the fact that we should hap- 
pen to be there at that time. 

We went to the stone church, a venerable 
edifice built in the old style, — the pulpit and 
galleries being very high. Perhaps a thou- 
sand natives were present, and they paid 
remarkable attention to all that was said. 
After service, we shook hands with a large 
portion of the audience. Most of the 
people came on horseback, and there must 
have been as many as five hundred horses 
tied outside the church. 

It was too far for us to go home before 
the afternoon service ; so we spent the time 
in visiting the graves of mission families 
near the church. In the afternoon we par- 



KA1LTJA. 133 

took of the communion with the congrega- 
tion. Every thing was conducted with great 
propriety. A native evangelist has had the 
care of this church since Mr. T. left, and 
they have well sustained their church and 
prayer-meetings, with very little outside 
aid from missionaries. 

We expected the steamer to call for us at 
any time after midnight, and so slept with 
one eye and one ear open. About twenty 
asses were in a pasture near us, and were 
braying all night long. We had little 
refreshing sleep, and were glad to see the 
smoke of the Kilauea as she came round a 
point in the distance at six o'clock in the 
morning. We wended our way to the 
beach, and amused ourselves by watching 
little native children playing in the water, 
and by picking up shells, until the boat 
came to take us on board the steamer, when 
we bade our friends good-by. As there was 
no wharf, a native took us up one by one 



134 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

and carried us to the boat. It seemed so 
funny at first for us grown people to be 
taken up like children ; but we got accus- 
tomed to it, the men lifting us easily, and 
placing us in the boat as dry and comfortable 
as possible. By three o'clock in the after- 
noon we were off Honoipu, where we were to 
disembark. This is the landing for Kohala. 
Mr. Bond met us, and a kind German was 
there with his wagon to take grandma and 
the baggage to Mr. B.'s house. The rest of 
us w r ent on horseback. Before grandpa 
mounted his horse, the natives gathered 
about him, and asked by an interpreter how 
old he was. They said, " his face and his 
form w r as young, but his hair was old." 
They expected to see an old decrepit man, 
and were quite surprised to find him so 
fresh and vigorous. We started on a brisk 
canter over a good road. My horse was 
unfortunate in his disposition, and would 
sometimes run across the road to kick 
another. 



KAILUA. 135 

" Why, aunty, what did he do that for ? " 
asked Harry. 

Perhaps he had the same feeling that a 
little boy -has, when he races with another 
boy. The latter runs a little faster perhaps, 
and the boy that is behind tries to hinder or 
tease him in some way, so that he may 
lose the race. I suppose my horse didn't 
want the other to pass him, and so tried to 
kick him. 

The trade-wind swept across that part of 
the island with great force. It really 
seemed as if we would be blown off our 
horses, and I was glad that my hat-strings 
were sewed on tightly. After a while, a sud- 
den shower came up, lasting about five min- 
utes ; but the wind soon dried us. Another 
and heavier one making its appearance in 
the distance, we turned off the road to go a 
shorter way. Mr. Bond was mounted on a 
large white mule ; as we were galloping 
hastily along over the grassy field, his mule 



136 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

stumbled, and over they went. All we 
could see was the mule's four feet in the 
air. Fortunately, Mr. Bond was not under 
the animal, as we feared, but rose from the 
soft grass a few feet ahead uninjured. The 
shower came steadily on, and we were 
obliged to take refuge in a native hut. The 
natives ran out, took off our saddles, and 
tied our horses for us, so that we might 
escape the shower. They were always 
ready to do a kind act for us. As I sat in 
the hut with two women and a pretty little 
native girl about three years old, I longed to 
be able to talk with them in their own 
language ; but after each of us had said 
" aloha," we could only sit and look at each 
other. 

Grandma and Mrs. Bond with her chil- 
dren were waiting on the piazza to meet us 
as we rode up. But there is the tea-bell, so 
we must wait until to-morrow to hear about 
Kohala. 



XIY. 



itojjaJa mtfr WLmmm. 




E are ready to hear about 
that queer-named place 
now, aunty," said Alice 
at my elbow as I sat 
writing in my room. 

Oh, yes, about Ko- 
hala. 



Every thing at Mr. Bond's was the pink 
of neatness, and though we were shut in 
by rain for five days, we enjoyed it. Some- 
times, it would look like clearing up, and 
we would walk in the garden ; but usually 
we had to hurry in to escape the rain. 

The garden looked beautifully, with some 

137 



138 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

rose-bushes twenty-five feet in circumfer- 
ence, and scarlet geraniums perhaps fifteen 
feet. It does one good just to look at them, 
after seeing only our little dwarf shrubs at 
home. Kanoa and his wife, the good 
Hawaiian missionaries to Micronesia, came 
with their little baby to bid us good-by. 

We had mangoes for the first time at Mr. 
Bond's, which were delicious. In shape 
they are like a pear, only flatter, with the 
large end growing next the stem. I can not 
describe the taste, it is unlike any thing we 
have. The seed is very large, being nearly 
two thirds the size of the fruit. Fresh figs, 
too, we tried for the first time, and to our 
surprise liked them. We had some papaias, 
which grow on trees ; the fruit tastes like a 
musk-melon, and pies made of them are 
very much like squash-pies. 

Sabbath morning it cleared up about 
eleven, so that we could go to church. 
Notwithstanding the weather, a goodly con- 



KOHALA AND WAIMEA. 139 

gregation assembled, and listened to grand- 
pa with great respect and attention. After 
meeting, as usual, they all wanted to shake 
hands with us. As I was going down the 
aisle, thinking I had shaken hands with all, 
I heard some one call " keika mahine, 
keika mahine " [daughter, daughter], and 
looking round, there was an old man stand- 
ing up on a seat with his hand stretched 
out to shake hands. Of course I must 
gratify him. Fortunately for us, Monday, 
April 20, was a pleasant day, and we started 
about nine o'clock for Waimea across the 
mountain. Grandma rode about twelve 
miles in Mr. Christianson's wagon, and then 
as the wagon-road ended, she went the 
remainder of the way on horseback. The 
rest of us were in the saddle all the way. 
How the wind did blow ! It seemed as if 
I should be carried out of my saddle bodily ; 
but we rode on over fields and barren 
wastes, and through steep and rocky 



140 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

gulches. At noon we reached the house of 
a foreigner, and were hospitably entertained. 
Mr. Lyons was waiting for us there, and 
Mr. Bond left us. What was more to us 
than dinner, was a feast of home letters, 
which Mr. Lyons had brought for us. 
After resting an hour or more, we were all 
in our saddles again. As we were riding, 
on the summit of a hill, or mountain as we 
should call it, a beautiful scene opened be- 
fore us. High above us the fleecy clouds 
parted, and we caught a glimpse of what 
seemed like "the promised land." There 
stood the peak of a lofty mountain covered 
with newly-fallen snow, shining white and 
beautiful in the sun's clear beams. It 
seemed too high up, too pure and fair in its 
framework of clouds, to belong to earth. 
This was the summit of Mauna Kea, and 
we shall not soon forget that vision of beauty. 
It seemed as if angels might flit over its 
snowy sides without any danger of soiling 



KOHJLLA AJYD WAIMEA. 141 

their pure white garments. We arrived at 
Mr. Lyons's about five, and were cordially 
met by Mrs. L. and her daughter. 

On Wednesday, we attended a meeting 
at Mr. Lyons's church. The house was 
filled with nicely-dressed natives. Grandpa 
and Mr. L. sat in front of the pulpit. At 
the back of the church was a large choir of 
men and women, who sung well and with 
animation, beating time with their hands. 

Soon after we entered, they sung an 
original hymn by -a native named Lyana, 
which the choir sung to the tune of " Hen- 
don." 

" Nan ike aloha la ! 
Me ka olioli pu 
I ka malihini hou — 
E aloha, aloha oe. 

" Holo oia a maanei, 
Mai Amerika mai no, 
Eia no ! ua komo mai — 
E aloha, aloha oe. 

" A, ma keia la maikai, 
Hui aloha pu kakou, 



142 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

Ma ka Luakini nei ; 
E aloha, aloha oe. 

" Ehauoli, olipu, 
E na hoahanau a pau, 
Kane, wahine, keiki no, 
E aloha, aloha oe. 

" Na ia nei i hoouna mai 
I na misioneri nei, 
E ao mai ia kakou nei ; 
E aloha, aloha oe. 

" E ala, oli kakou pu, 
A kokua aloha no 
Ka makua o kakou ; — 
E aloha, aloha mau." 

Mr. Bingham, one of the first missionaries 
to the islands, has given us this translation : 

" Wonderful that love sincere ! 
Great our joint rejoicings here, 
For the stranger guest we see ; 
Cordial welcome, friend, to thee. 

" Sailing far to reach our homes, 
From America he comes ; 
Lo ! in peace he enters here ; 
Welcome to our hearts sincere. 

." Now on this delightful day, 
We, in love, unite to pray : 
Here beneath our temple spire, 
We our welcome give thee, sire. 






KOHALA AND WA1MEA. 143 

" Jointly chanting, now rejoice ; 
Brethren, all unite your voice ; 
Husbands, wives, and little ones, 
Greet this friend with grateful tones. 

" This is he who hither sends 
These true missionary friends, 
To enlighten our dark mind ; 
Thanks and love to one so kind. 

" Let us then all rise and sing, 
And our grateful succor bring ; 
For our sire our love to prove, — 
Love, good- will, unceasing love." 

Grandpa then made an address, and told 
them about the missions in Western Asia. 
Then Kanoa, the missionary to Micronesia, 
made a prayer ; after which, he and his 
wife sung a Micronesian hymn. Grandpa 
told them, in another short address, about 
the India missions. Mr. Lyons then arose 
and spoke about his own mission, and intro- 
duced his senior deacon, Timotao Nalanipo, 
who made a speech in Hawaiian. Mr. 
Lyons translated it, and I will read you the 
translation. 

" The church-members of the highlands 



144 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

of Waimea, the old men, the aged women, 
the strong men, the youth and children, 
tender, through me, their salutation to you, 
the secretary, your companion, and daugh- 
ter. Great, indeed, is our joy in being per- 
mitted to see you, to welcome you to our 
land. You have been sent by the learned 
Missionary Society of great America, as its 
delegate, to see the works of the gospel 
heralds you have sent to us. 

" We, the ancient men of Kamehameha's 
time, were once idolaters, murderers, guilty 
of infanticide, polygamy, and constantly 
quarreling one with another. On the 
death of Kamehameha, the kingdom de- 
volved on his son Liholiho. He abolished 
idolatry, broke the tabus ; men and women 
for the first time ate together, and the 
temples and gods were burned to ashes. 

" Still we lived on in poverty and dark- 
ness, and in secret worship of idols, and 
were without the knowledge of the living 



KOHALA AMD WAIMEA. 145 

and true God. Men, women, and children 
were promiscuously devoted to the most 
sordid pleasures, heathenish dances, and 
revelries, day and night. In the year 1820, 
the missionaries, Mr. Bingham and com- 
pany, came to these islands to proclaim the 
blessed gospel to us, who knew not God, 
nor had heard of the death of Jesus, the 
Messiah, the Saviour of the world. It was 
you, the Missionary Society you represent, 
that loved us, and sent the good missionaries 
to our dark land. 

" The king and his premier allowed the 
missionaries to dwell with us ; to introduce 
a new order of things ; to teach us first the 
twelve letters of the alphabet, then spell- 
ing, then reading and writing. 

" During the forty-three years the mis- 
sionaries have resided on the islands, much 
seed has been sown, much labor performed, 
and wonderful have been the results. We 
were once all dark, buried in darkness, sunk 
10 



146 THE HAWAIIAN' ISLANDS. 

to the lowest depths of ignorance, roaming 
about the fields and woods, like wild beasts, 
without clothing, our naked bodies most 
shamefully exposed and blackened by the 
sun, without books, without Bibles, without 
Christianity, plunging into the darkness of 
hell. Now we are clothed, like civilized 
beings ; we are Christianized ; we are gath- 
ered into churches ; we are intelligent ; 
we are supplied with books, Bibles and 
hymn-books ; and are living for God and for 
heaven ; and this through the labors of the 
missionaries you have sent us. 

" Our joy is inexpressible in seeing you; 
and we beg you to carry back to your asso- 
ciates, to the Missionary Society, to all the 
American churches connected with it, the 
warmest salutations of the churches of 
Waimea and Hamakua." 

This good old man has since died, and 
gone, doubtless, to be with his Lord whom 
he so long loved and served. 



KOHALA AJYJD WAIMEA. 147 

At the close of the Hawaiian address, 
another original native hymn was sung, 
composed by Samuela, and sung to the tune 
of " Farewell, farewell is a lonely sound." 

" Auwe ; auwe ; aloha la 

Ka malihini hou 

Ma keia la hauoli nei 

Ua hui pu kakou. 

" Auwe ; auwe ; aloha la 
Ka malihini hou 
A eia la ua komo mai 
Ka luakini nei. 

" Auwe ; auwe ; aloha la 
Ka malihini hou 
A na ia nei i hoouna mai 

Na misionari nei. 

" Auwe ; auwe ; aloha la 
Ka ekalesia nei 
Kane, wahine, kamalii 
Kokua pu kakou. 

" Auwe ; auwe ; aloha la 
Ka makua a kakou 
Aloha a mahalo pu 
Ka malihini hou." 

Mr. Lyons translated it for us : — 

" Oh ! oh ! we'll welcome you, sire, 
The stranger we now greet. 



148 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

This is a gladsome day, sire ; 
For we together meet. 

" Oh ! oh ! we'll welcome you, sire, 
The stranger of whom we've heard ; 
Lo ! now with us you enter here, 
This temple of the Lord. 

" Oh ! oh ! we'll welcome you, sire, 
The stranger to our land ; 
'Twas you who loved and sent to us 
The missionary band. 

" Oh ! oh ! we'll welcome you, sire, 
Say all the brethren here, 
Men, women, and the children, sire, 
Unite in love sincere, 

" Oh ! oh ! we'll welcome you, sire, 
Our father and our friend ; 
Our best respects and wishes has 
This stranger to our land." 

After this was sung, we shook hands 
with nearly all in the church. Many, 
to our embarrassment, brought little tokens 
of good-will in money, amounting in all to 
ten dollars. With this we bought Ha- 
waiian Bibles to be distributed among the 
people. Imagine a man, coming up to 
shake hands, but stopping before he did it 



KOHALA AND WAIMEA. 149 

diving his hand into the pocket of his 
pantaloons, taking out a quarter of a dollar 
and laying it on the table, then shaking 
hands as if he had paid for it ! They have, 
however, none of that feeling. 
The tea-bell ! the tea-bell ! 



XY. 



um. 



OUR o'clock came, and with it 
my little folks, all ready for a 
story. So I commenced. 

We left Waimea on the 
morning of April 23, and rode 
on horseback to Kowaihae, 
a distance of twelve miles ; 
there we were to take the steamer Kilauea. 
On our way down to the shore we visited 
a heiau [hay-ow], or heathen temple. It 
was built by Kamehameha I. at the time 
he was going over to conquer Maui 
[Mow-e]. This was the last temple built 
on Hawaii. All the inhabitants of the 

150 




MAUL 151 

island, men and women, were commanded 
to come and help build it, and none dared 
to stay away. It is about two hundred 
feet square, twenty-five feet high, and as 
many feet thick, of solid stone, just like 
a massive wall. Within we saw where the 
sacrifices were laid overnight, and the pit 
where they were thrown in the morning, — - 
a place called by the natives hell. 

" What were their sacrifices, aunty ? " 
asked Willie. 

Human beings, — generally lame or 
maimed persons. Before Kamehameha I. 
left for the conquest of Maui, thirteen 
human sacrifices are said to have been 
offered on this altar to insure him suc- 
cess. 

After being hospitably entertained by a 
son of Judge Allen at Kowaihae, we went 
on board the steamer about eight o'clock in 
the evening, and soon Hawaii was left 
behind in the darkness. We had finished 
our tour of that island, and saw it no more. 



152 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

We had a rough night, and did not arrive 
at Kalepolepo, Maui, until twelve o'clock. 
We went on shore in a high wind, and 
landed in a storm of sand. 

" A storm of sand, aunty ! What do you 
mean? " asked Carrie. 

Just what I say, — a storm of sand. The 
wind was so strong that the very sand was 
blown up in our faces with such force as to 
make the skin tingle. 

Mr. Alexander met us, and we started in 
this same storm and high wind for Wailuku, 
ten miles distant, where he resides. Even 
the gentlemen had veils over their faces, and 
hats tied on with handkerchiefs. The air 
was so thick with sand that we could hardly 
see, but we pushed bravely on. We were 
all on horseback, our baggage coming on 
more slowly in an ox- cart. 

We had just got within sight of Mr. 
Alexander's house, having only a ride of 
perhaps ten minutes before us, when, to our 



MAUL 153 

dismay, there came a deluge of rain. My 
veil in a moment became like ground glass, 
the water making it impossible for me to see 
through it. Of course I could not guide my 
horse, but he followed the rest of the com- 
pany ; and glad indeed were we to change 
our soaked garments for others kindly fur- 
nished by the mission family, and thankful 
that our baggage did not arrive until after 
the shower was over, so that it escaped 
getting wet. 

The next day we had a visit from many 
native men and women, who brought their 
gifts of eggs, onions, cabbages, fowls, and 
melons. They all seemed so genuinely 
happy to see us that it was a pleasure to 
meet them. 

On the Sabbath we attended church all 
day, with a well-dressed and decorous con- 
gregation of Hawaiians. They had a melo- 
deon and a very good choir. Mr. Alexander 
told us that six of the choir could play on 



154 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

the instrument, and they all take turns, one 
playing in the morning, another in the 
afternoon. They hired a teacher to come 
over from Lahaina once or twice a week. 
This they planned entirely among them- 
selves, I believe. 

Monday morning we made up a party to 
go into Iao [E-ah-o] valley. "We were all 
on horseback, — nine of us, — and a happy 
company we were. The valley was so nar- 
row that we crossed a swollen and rapid 
mountain stream five times. The ascent the 
last part of the way, before reaching the 
plateau, was very steep. But oh, what a 
magnificent valley we were in ! It was 
about three miles long, and from one to two 
broad, while all around us, excepting the 
side we entered, were precipices from four 
to six or seven thousand feet high, in many 
instances perpendicular. It was a grand 
sight, to be remembered for a lifetime. 

We dismounted from our horses, and the 



MAUL 155 

younger portion of the company rambled in 
the woods in search of tree-shells. 

"Tree-shells I What are they, aunty?" 
asked Harry. 

They are snail-shells. I think I was told 
that over a hundred varieties are found on 
the islands, every valley and each hundred 
feet of elevation having a different species. 
We used to notice thejdnd of tree that 
seemed to have the most, and then searched 
for that tree. They prefer the under sides 
of the leaves ; so we would peer up in the 
branches, and when we found one, would 
pick it off and drop it in our pocket-handker- 
chief. After we were tired of " shelling," we 
came back to where our elders were quietly 
chatting, and had a nice picnic lunch, sitting 
on the grass, with fern-leaves for plates. 
What a sight was before our eyes ! — these 
majestic works of God rising thousands of 
feet above us, apparently resting in clouds ! 

Towards the entrance of the valley is a 



156 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

very peculiar peak, called " The Needle," 
from its being so sharp and pointed. I 
wanted very much to sketch it, but started 
off without my materials ; however grandpa 
had a note-book and pencil, and I knew 
that he would be willing to give me a leaf ; 
but while we were off shelling, he left the 
valley and went back to Wailuku with Mr. 
Alexander, they having no time for picnick- 
ing ; so what was I to do ? Some of the 
lunch had been wrapped in white paper, 
which I smoothed out, and relied on some 
of the party for a pencil. When we got 
opposite " The Needle," I stopped my horse, 
and prepared myself for sketching, but not 
a pencil could be found among all the party. 
What do you think I did ? I took a pin, 
and pricked the outline, and places where 
the heavy shading was to be, and after I got 
home drew the picture. This " Needle " has 
an historical interest. You remember I told 
you that the heathen temple near Kowaihae 




Bearing Burdens. — Page 89. 



i 




The Needle. Iao Valley.— Page 156. 



MAUL 157 

was built by Kamehameha I. before he left 
for the conquest of Maui. It was in this 
Iao valley that the people of Maui met the 
king's forces. A band of warriors with their 
families took refuge on this " Needle," which 
is accessible at such places only as could 
be easily defended against a large number. 
The enemy tried to starve them out, but 
failed. They then made believe they had 
left the valley, but at night hid themselves 
on the banks of the mountain stream where 
the warriors would go down to drink. As 
these poor deluded people came to quench 
their thirst, they murdered them all, men, 
women, and children. The stream flowed 
red with blood for two hours. That was 
heathen warfare, cruel and bloodthirsty, and 
this was the last battle fought on Maui ; for 
the island became subject to the rule of 
Kamehameha I. 

At six o'clock Wednesday morning, we 
started on horseback for Maanea's Landing, 



158 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

seven miles off, on the opposite side of the 
bay from Kalepolepo, expecting to take a 
whale-boat to Lahaina; but no whale-boat 
was there, so we had to return, bag and 
baggage, to Mr. Alexander's. We rode back 
the distance of seven miles in an hour, 
which we thought was doing very well, as 
grandma kept her place in the cavalcade 
all the way. 

We passed over miles of land desolated 
by a waterspout which broke on the moun- 
tains, rolling down a flood of water with vast 
quantities of earth and stone into the valley 
below. 

" What is a waterspout ? " 

It is a sort of whirlwind at sea; a body 
of water is caught up by the wind, some- 
times joining the cloud above it, and rolling 
on until it meets with some obstacle, when 
it breaks, and washes away houses and 
trees, or anything movable. It will sink a 
ship if it strikes it. 



MAUL 159 

The next morning we went down again 
to the shore, and were more successful, for 
the boat was there waiting for us. As the 
wind was fair, the boat-boys raised their sail, 
and we danced over the waves swiftly and 
merrily. After an hour's easy sailing, the 
wind left us, and our men took their oars 
for a two hours' rowing to Lahaina. For a 
part of the time we passed through shallow 
water over a coral reef, where we could look 
down upon forests of coral, shaped like 
branches of trees, white, or tinged slightly 
with red or green. It was a beautiful sight, 
and I longed to get some to bring home. 
We came safely through the surf. Lahaina 
looks beautifully as you approach it from 
the sea. It has some very pretty houses, 
and they seem to be embowered by cocoa- 
nut and other trees, so that the whole scene 
is more tropical in its appearance than any 
other place on the islands. We landed at 
the same spot where we had done six 



160 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

weeks before, and found our friends all 
ready to greet us, having seen our boat ap- 
proaching. Our three hours' sail had been 
a very pleasant one, and the only sail we 
had had in a whale-boat. 

After dinner, without stopping to rest, 
we mounted our horses, and sped up the 
hill to Lahainaluna, a distance of two miles, 
over a hot, dusty road, to attend the exami- 
nation of the native seminary or college 
there. Most of the services were conducted 
in an unknown tongue, but the answers were 
prompt, and seemed to be in most instances 
satisfactory. After sitting and hearing reci- 
tations for about three hours, we left, and 
visited some of the rooms of the students. 
They looked very neat and clean, many of 
them having gay patchwork quilts on their 
beds, and quite a number of them had our 
illustrated newspapers pinned on the wall, 
with their favorite general occupying a con- 
spicuous place. 



MAUL 161 

The first of May was commencement day. 
The exercises were held in the church 
at Lahaina. We went down about nine. 
The alumni walked in a procession to the 
church, and were a fine-looking, intelligent 
set of men. The addresses were very cred- 
itable. The audience were attentive and 
quiet, and were well-dressed. The singing 
was very good, — Hawaiian words set to 
some of our familiar college tunes, which 
were sung with a great deal of spirit. 

After the exercises in the church, the 
alumni had a dinner in the yard of the 
church, under a grove of cocoa-nut trees. 
The foreign guests were honored with a 
table by themselves, and were served by 
students. At the end of the table was a pig 
roasted whole, stuffed with greens, baked 
with hot stones in one of their ovens in the 
ground. This dish they call " luau " [lu- 
ow]. Besides whole pig, they had other 
pork, veal, poi, bread, cake, and cocoa-nut 
11 



162 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

water. The whole dinner was well-served, 
and the white guests showed their appre- 
ciation of the good things by making a 
hearty dinner. 

But we must wait for our ride in Lahaina 
until to-morrow. 



; 



XYI. 




ajjafhm— flraaL 



^OME, aunty," called Alice, 
" we want to take our ride 
in Lahaina." 



We started soon after the 
alumni dinner, and rode 
down towards the beach, 
where we saw the Amer- 
ican consul's residence, a cozy, thatched 
house, then turned off upon a road lead- 
ing to the hospital. Here is the finest 
grove of cocoa-nut trees to be seen any- 
where on the group of islands. Soon 
after the arrival of the missionaries, they 
perceived that no one planted cocoa-nuts, 

and that there was danger of the trees dying 

163 



164 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

out. A missionary was talking to a high 
chief woman, and said to her, " Why don't 
you plant cocoa-nuts, so that trees may 
grow ? " " Oh ! I shall never live to eat 
them," she carelessly remarked. " True," 
said the missionary, " you may not live to 
eat them, but your children may live and 
enjoy the fruit." 

She thought a few moments ; a new idea 
seemed to have entered that mind just com- 
ing out from the darkness of heathenism 
into the light of Christianity. She had 
been accustomed only to think of herself, 
and what she might enjoy. It had never 
occurred to her that she could do anything 
for those who came after her until now, 
and she said,, " It shall be done ; " and 
within twenty-four hours, a schooner was 
sent off, which brought a load of cocoa-nuts, 
and these were planted where now is that 
beautiful cocoa-nut grove. 

On returning from this grove, we passed 



LAHAIJYA — KAUJLL 165 

by fields of sugar-cane, and visited Mr. 
Spencer s sugar-mill. It was a sweet place, 
and sticky too ! They have a mill turned 
by twelve or fourteen mules in spans, which 
grinds the cane and presses out the juice. 
Then there are several vats in a row, with 
fires under them, where the juice is boiled. 
The sugar is clarified by lime-water ; it is 
then put into round sieves which turn with 
great rapidity, and through which the syrup 
is pressed, leaving a clean-looking, dry, 
brown sugar. That is the process as near 
as I remember it. They make barrels in 
the same building, so that the sugar leaves 
the mill all ready for exporting. 

Lahaina is a very dusty place, the earth 
is red and sticky. If we stayed there long, 
it seemed as if not only our clothes, but we 
ourselves, must become copper-colored. 

On the Sabbath, May 3, a large assembly 
met at the church, and grandpa addressed 
them. They listened as usual with great 



166 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS, 

attention, and after the service was over, 
they all flocked about him, wishing to shake 
hands. The communion service was in the 
afternoon, and all the ministers present took 
part. It was an interesting service, natives 
and foreigners sitting together around their 
Lord's table. Several friends in the mission 
coming together in the evening, at Dr. 
Baldwin's house, we sung hymns for an 
hour to our dear home tunes. It recalled 
to some of us our own loved America and 
the family circle where in years gone by we 
had sung with these friends the same tunes. 
On Monday we attended an exhibition 
of Mr. Dwight Baldwin's native school. It 
was very interesting. The dialogues were 
exciting, even though in an unknown tongue 
and spoken by little boys ; for they acted 
them out thoroughly, seeming to forget the 
spectators entirely. The singing was spirit- 
ed and in good time. There was none of 
that painful shyness and hesitation which 



LAHJLWJL — KAUJLI. 167 

we sometimes see in our American schools, 
and we greatly enjoyed the scene. . 

Tuesday being our last day in Lahaina, a 
great many natives came to see us, bringing 
little love-tokens 5 — one or two shells such 
as they wear for bracelets, or a pretty wreath 
of yellow feathers such as are worn for a 
necklace. At seven in the evening, at- 
tended by quite a cavalcade of natives and 
other friends, we went on board the steamer 
Kilauea, and soon had our last view of 
Maui, as we slowly steamed away, and the 
darkness came on. 

We entered the port of Honolulu at about 
ten the next morning, having been absent 
on our tour of the islands of Hawaii and 
Maui fifty-eight days. Our welcome from 
the friends in Honolulu was very hearty. 
The calls upon us commenced as soon as 
we reached Mr. Clark's, and each day 
we dined or took tea or lunched with 
some one of the mission families. 



168 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

Saturday morning, May 9, was spent in 
calling on the old Governor Kekuanaoa, 
and his daughter, the Princess Victoria, the 
father and sister of the present and late 
kings. They live in a very pretty-looking 
house, with a garden attached to it. The 
governor has a grapery, and presented us 
with some fine bunches of grapes. There 
were some very long canoes being made on 
his premises, consisting each of the trunk 
of a tree, scooped out and prettily finished. 

Monday afternoon we went on board 
the little steam-schooner, Annie Laurie, 
bound for the island of Kauai [Kow-i]. 
Hon. R. C. Wyllie was on board, and a band 
of music accompanied us for a short dis- 
tance. Music is music the world over, but 
this was the only brass band on the islands. 

One of the gentlemen on board was asked, 
the next morning, how he felt, and replied, 
" I feel as if I had swallowed a kitten and 
a mouse, and the kitten was after the 



LAHAINA — KAUAI. 169 

mouse ! " — the best description I have ever 
heard of sea-sickness. 

We arrived at Hanalei, Kauai, about 
twelve on Tuesday, and were met on the 
beach by the missionaries, Messrs. Johnson 
and Wilcox, who escorted us on horseback 
to the house of the former gentleman. The 
next morning we breakfasted at Mr. Wil- 
cox's, then at twelve had a meeting in the 
church, where a goodly number of natives 
were assembled ; among them Kanoa, the 
governor of Kauai, who afterwards dined 
with us. 

At three o'clock, Mr. Wyllie sent down a 
boat for our party, to take us to his estate, 
called Princeville. It was a delightful row 
up the river, the foliage on either bank was 
the richest and most luxuriant we had seen. 
There was hardly a ripple on the water, and 
no sound was to be heard but the gentle dip 
of the oars. 

First, we visited the sugar-mill, which is 



1 70 THE HA WAIIAJST ISLAND 8. 

the finest and most expensive on the islands. 
There we witnessed the whole process, from 
the grinding of the cane to the grained 
sugar. After that we went up to the agent's 
house, and were cordially welcomed by his 
family, and shown over the beautiful gar- 
den surrounding the house. There was a 
hedge of lovely roses, with a profusion of 
fragrant blossoms. They gave us straw- 
berries, peaches, pine-apples, and sugar- 
cane to take with us, ■ — a citron, too, such 
as our preserved citron for cake is made of. 
It looked like an enormous lemon. Besides 
this, we had an elegant bouquet of flowers, — 
a magnificent fragrant magnolia, that queen 
of flowers, looking so waxen with its heavy 
white leaves, and in beautiful contrast with 
it the scarlet pomegranate blossoms : a 
fair white lily and snowy japonica com- 
pleted a bouquet fit for a royal gift. 

The view from the piazza is exquisite. 
Mountains rise peak above peak in the 



LAHAIJVA — KAUAI. 171 

distance, while a beautiful valley, with its 
meandering stream, lies at your feet. Trop- 
ical trees and lovely flowers are all around 
you. I do not wonder that Mr. Wyllie is 
proud of Kikiula valley, with its waving 
fields of sugar-cane. He called his estate 
Princeville after the young Prince of Ha- 
waii, who is now dead. 

On Thursday morning, bright and early, 
we started on our travels again. The roads 
of Kauai are better than on any of the 
other islands. Several members of the 
party started a little before the others, and 
rode up Kikiula valley through Princeville. 
After a ride of about two and a half miles, 
we dismounted, and ascended a little emi- 
nence. What a scene was before us ! Far 
below was the river with its rapids, the 
course of which we could trace down 
the valley for some distance. Around us 
were the mountains, on the left a bluff, "and 
before us the Twin Peaks, with cascades in 



172 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

the distance. We galloped back, and soon 
overtook our cavalcade. We had a fine 
ride that day through groves of tropical- 
looking lohala- trees. Verdant valleys and 
lovely cascades, winding streams and wood- 
ed precipices, abound. After fording a nar- 
row arm of the sea, grandma's horse gave 
himself so violent a shake that the girth of 
the saddle broke, throwing both her and 
the saddle to the ground. Fortunately, no 
bones were broken, as where she fell the 
sand was quite deep, but she felt the shock 
for several days. We lunched at the house 
of a German, who kept a small store, and 
then rode on several miles to Kealia Park, 
the residence of Mr. Krull, a kind German 
gentleman, who hospitably entertained us 
overnight. Mr. Krull has a large dairy, 
which in part supplies the Honolulu market 
with butter. He has a well-conducted, 
elegant, and tasteful establishment ; indeed, 
it was difficult to imagine that no lady's 



LAHAIJVA — KAUAI. 173 

hand was employed in it. The grounds 
about the house are prettily laid out, and 
two walks lead to a picturesque 'Summer- 
house, called "Bellevue," from which one 
looks off over an extensive plain to the sea. 
We slept in a nice grass house, with mat- 
ting on the side instead of paper. Familiar 
engravings adorned the walls, and the beds, 
with their pretty muslin mosquito-curtains, 
looked inviting enough to the weary trav- 
eler. 

We saw many kinds of tea-roses, with 
their delicate tints. The garden abounded 
in a variety of vegetables, and we feasted 
on strawberries which were hanging on 
their stems in the morning. Within sight 
was a fine bluff extending down to the sea. 
About fifty feet from the top of the ledge 
was a round hole, through which we could 
see the sky. The bluff was very steep and 
thin, and exceedingly bold in its outlines, as 
almost all the ranges of hills are here. 

But now we must go to tea. 



XYIL 

mux nxtiji ©uhu. 




OME aunty, come!" said 
Alice; "Willie and Carrie 
Y sent me to call you." So I 
went with my little mes- 
senger. 

We left Mr. Krull's on 

the morning of May 15, 
and had a sandy and uninteresting ride 
until noon. The only pleasant thing 
about it, beside good company, was an 
exquisite bouquet of beautiful tea-rose- 
buds, from our kind entertainer's garden. 
At noon a carriage met us, kindly sent by 
a foreign resident at Lihue, and the older 

members of the party got into it. It was a 

174 




s*ZS-sVr'/r'*~ 



Wailua Falls. — rage 175. 



KAUAI AND OAHU. 175 

heavily-built English barouche drawn by two 
horses. Two native outriders, when a steep 
hill was to be ascended, attached lassos to 
the carriage, which were fastened to their 
saddles, so that, with the aid of their horses, 
the carriage went steadily and quickly over 
the ground, and the occupants had the sat- 
isfaction of riding in a coach and four. 

" What are lassos ? " asked Alice. 

A lasso is a long rope, sometimes made 
of leather. It is generally used to catch 
wild horses or cattle with ; but it did excel- 
lent service in the wav in which it was used 

m 

that day. 

We arrived at Mrs. Rice's, Lihue, in good 
season, and stayed there overnight. We 
visited another sugar-mill there, and found 
it like the others, — a sweet place. 

Early on Saturday morning, I started on 
an excursion to Wailua Falls, about six 
miles distant. We rode over field and 
meadow, when suddenly my companion 



176 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

reined in his horse, and came for me to dis- 
mount. " But where are the falls ? " said I. 
" You will see soon." A few steps brought 
me to the brink of an abyss. What a 
beautiful scene burst upon my astonished 
eye ! Eight before me was this huge sheet 
of water, pouring into a dark . circular pool 
beneath. One side of the fall was heavy, 
the other so thin that it seemed as if every 
drop fell by itself ; while covering the black 
rocks beneath, as if with emerald velvet, 
were delicate ferns and mosses. How 
pure and fleecy it looked ! while far, far 
below us the river gleamed like silver 
through the leaves. The hight of this fall 
is one hundred and eighty-six feet, and it is 
fifty feet broad. Two miles farther up the 
river is another fall nearly as high, but 
divided into two cascades, one about one 
hundred feet, the other perhaps seventy. 

There is a fine estate not far from the 
falls that seemed more like an American 



KAUAI AND OAHU. 177 

country-seat than any I saw on the islands. 
A large square house is built upon the edge 
of what was once an old crater, but which 
is now transformed into a fine garden, 
abounding in flowers. This is a dairy-farm, 
and is well kept. Our sixteen miles' ride 
was performed in less than three hours, 
which we thought fast riding, there being 
no road most of the way. 

We left Lihue at ten o'clock, and rode 
over to Koloa, ten miles, in the barouche, 
arriving there in time for dinner. 

After tea the young people of the mis- 
sion went down upon the beach to see the 
" Spouting Horn." Through an under- 
ground channel, the waves are driven in 
with so much force as to make, through a 
small hole in the rock, a fountain forty or 
fifty feet high, with a sound that is heard 
for some distance. There is also a blow- 
hole, reminding one of the volcano, and a 

12 



178 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

" boiler," — a round cavity where the waves 
sink, and then suddenly boil over. 

On the Sabbath, grandpa addressed the 
natives in the morning. The governor of 
the island of Kauai was present. In the 
afternoon he preached to the foreigners. 
Quite a party came over from Lihue, mak- 
ing a goodly number in all. Almost all 
the native churches on the Sandwich Isl- 
ands are pretty and neat. The people 
seem to take a great deal of pride in them, 
and keep them in good repair. All are 
furnished with bells, so that the sound of 
the " church-going bell " is heard in every 
village. 

Monday morning we started for Waimea 
with a large cavalcade, our friends wish- 
ing to see us safely over the first half of 
our way. Mr. Howell, of Waimea, met us. 
The country as we neared Waimea grew 
desolate. They had had no rain there 
for a year, and nearly all vegetation had 



KAUAI AND OAHU. 179 

dried up. Not a blade of grass was seen, 
and only a few green trees relieved the eye 
in that arid region. The reason of the 
drought is that Waimea is on the lee- 
ward side of the mountains, which are a 
barrier to the clouds and rain. 

" What is leeward ? " asked Harry. 

On the opposite side from that upon 
which the wind blows. We were met with 
great cordiality by the entire family. " Old 
Jona " came to see us, an aged Hawaiian 
of Kamehameha I.'s time. A very interest- 
ing old man he was too. 

The next morning there was a meeting 
at the church, and grandpa addressed the 
natives. " Old Jona " sat in front of the 
pulpit, and when anything grandpa said 
pleased him particularly, he would turn 
round to him, smile, and nod his head. It 
was amusing to observe his evident enjoy- 
ment. 

Some of us went down to the beach. The 



180 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

tide was coming in, and the boys made what 
they called sandboats. They built a bank 
in the shape of a boat, and watched to see 
the waves wash it away. At length they 
made a heavy sand fort, which they called 
Sumter, that seemed strong enough to defy 
the assaults of the water. Wave after wave 
dashed against and over it, and finally it, 
too, disappeared like the others. 

In the afternoon we rode up into the 
valley, where Mr. Ro well's garden is. 
There everything was green, in striking 
contrast with the scene near his house. 
We found some nice peaches, and brought 
home a pretty bouquet of white roses and 
nasturtions. The next day, Wednesday, 
we started for Koloa. Dr. Smith and party 
met us at Wahiawa. We stopped to dine 
at Mr. Duncan McBride's, a Scotchman's, 
where we were sumptuously entertained. 
After tea at Dr. Smith's, we embarked on 
the steam-schooner Annie Laurie, and soon 



KAUAI AND OAHU. 181 

after seven, took our farewell look at the 
island of Kauai. 

Two nights and a day were spent on the 
deck of that schooner, with a chopped sea, 
a head- wind, and sea-sickness, — a weary, 
dreary time. We were somewhat com- 
forted about three o'clock on Friday morn- 
ing by hailing the bark Young Hector, 
just outside of Honolulu harbor; for we 
knew that before long home letters would 
be in our hands, and we had received none 
for a month. About five o'clock, our steam- 
er reached the wharf, and we were soon in 
our comfortable quarters at Mr. Clark's. 
About eight o'clock our letters came. 

We had little time for rest ; for the next 
day, Saturday, May 23, we started on our 
tour around Oahu. 

We saw among the Moanalua hills a 
curious little salt lake, as salt as the sea. 
Here a slight shower dampened our clothes, 
but not our spirits. About fifteen miles 



182 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

from Honolulu we stopped at Ewa, where 
grandpa was to hold a meeting in the 
church. Quite a number of natives came, 
and we had a pleasant greeting. The lunch 
was served for us at Mr. Bishop's house, 
and we then resumed our journey over a 
good road, and finished our ride of thirty- 
five miles about five o'clock. We stayed 
at Mr. Emerson's, Waialua, and had two 
services in the native language on the Sab- 
bath. We really enjoyed these meetings 
with the natives, and constantly exclaim- 
ed, " What hath God wrought ! " Only a 
few years ago, these islands were in the 
depths of barbarism and idolatry ; now, 
what a change ! The people are well 
dressed ; in the house of God they are 
respectful and attentive, have their own 
deacons, their own choir, are intelligent. 
Most of them can read, and when the text 
was given out, or a chapter read, often the 
Bible would be opened to the place, and 



KAUAI AND OAHU. 183 

they would follow the reading with great 
apparent interest. 

On Monday the younger members of the 
party rode to a grove about eight miles dis- 
tant to get tree-shells, and brought home 
quite a number. 

Tuesday morning we started for Kualoa. 
Grandpa and grandma rode in Mr. Emer- 
son's wagon drawn by two horses ; the rest 
of us were on horseback. The roads were 
good, our spirits excellent, and the weather 
fine ; so, of course, all was well. Mr. 
Charles H. Judd met us with his double 
team about five miles out, and we lunched 
at Mr. Moffatt's. Mr. Moffatt is an English- 
man, who has here a fine place, and large 
herds of cattle. He has a pretty bathing- 
place near the house, perhaps twenty feet 
in diameter, half in sunlight, half in a 
grotto, with delicate ferns almost hiding the 
rock. 

There were several peacocks sunning 



184 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

*■ 

themselves on a wall near the house ; but 
none of them condescended to spread their 
beautiful feathers for us to admire. Before 
the house are two large stone idols, the 
only ones we saw on the islands. 

" Are they worshiped, aunty ? ' : asked 
Alice. 

No, they are placed there as curiosities. 

Grandpa and Mr. Judd had an engage- 
ment, and started before us. Grandma rode 
in Mr. Judd's wagon, and we left Mr. Mof- 
fatt's about two. 



XYIIL 



u. 



HE next day at four, I took 
my customary seat, sur- 
rounded by my little group, 
and resumed mv narrative. 

About ten miles from 
Kahuku, at Hauula, is a 
church with a native pas- 
tor, — Mr. Kuaia. We attended a meeting 
there, and afterward dined at his house. 
He is a well-educated and gentlemanly 
man, and his wife an interesting woman. 
They live in a neat grass house, furnished 
simply but comfortably in American style. 
The dinner passed off in a very satisfactory 

185 




186 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

manner. They had pretty wreaths pre- 
pared for us ; some were made of a small 
orange- colored apple, others of yellow mari- 
golds strung on a cord. After dinner we 
rode another ten miles, and were tired 
enough with our long day's ride to sleep 
well. 

The next morning we rode over to the 
house of a friend to see the lassoing of 
cattle. The house was on quite an emi- 
nence, so that we had a good view of a 
level plain before it. A herd of cattle 
were driven into the valley, and three gen- 
tlemen on trained horses, with lassos in 
their hands, each selected their animal, and 
started in pursuit. It seemed as if in an 
instant the creature knew it was hunted, 
for it would move from place to place, and 
then start on a run, endeavoring to elude 
its pursuers ; but the horseman, never for a 
moment losing sight of his prey, galloped 
on, turning this way and that as the crea- 



OAHU. 187 

ture did, until near enough, and then the 
lasso sped through the air coiling round 
and round the poor animal's legs, general- 
ly throwing him on his knees. Then the 
hunter leaped from his saddle, the intelli- 
gent horse standing still, and the lasso was 
drawn tighter and tighter until the ani- 
mal fell on his side. Finally, a rope was 
tied round the hind legs, and the work was 
done. It was -very exciting, as once in a 
while a horse would stumble and fall, some- 
times throwing his rider ; and oftentimes 
the chase was long, the animal eluding the 
hunter's grasp just as he thought he had 
cornered him. 

" Oh, I wish I had been there ! " said 
Harry. 

Yes, I don't doubt that you would have 
enjoyed it ; but I felt so sorry for the poor 
cattle that it tired me. 

In the afternoon, we young people went 
on an excursion of about twenty miles on 



188 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

horseback to see the Falls of Ka Liuwaa. 
After passing about eight miles on the 
beach, we turned up a mountain ravine ; 
two miles more brought us to the end of 
our ride. We dismounted and had a lunch, 
sitting in the branches of a fallen kukui- 
tree, and drinking water from a cup made 
of a taro leaf. We took off our riding- 
skirts, threw them over the saddle, and 
leaving our horses in the care of a native 
man, walked up the narrow gorge, or gulch, 
as they call it here, seldom more than one 
or two hundred feet wide, with precipitous 
sides rising sometimes a thousand feet above 
us. At times we were just on the edge of 
the stream, but as often jumping from rock 
to rock in the very bed of the brook. To- 
wards the termination of the gorge, is a 
place in the' rock called '* The Canoe," a 
half-circle gouged right down the precipice 
as smooth as if chiseled out, about fifty feet 
wide, and a thousand feet deep. 



OAHU. 189 

" Why do they call it " The Canoe " f 
asked Willie. 

There is a story , connected with it, as 
with everything on these islands. One of 
their gods was angry with another god, and 
sought to kill him. I believe the latter, 
who was running away, slipped his canoe 
down the rock, making the groove I have 
described, and escaped to the sea. 

Soon we came to the fall itself, and here 
the precipices on each side were one and 
two thousand feet high. The fall is about 
a hundred feet, running through, a narrow 
gulch from a lake above, and probably 
never was seen by a foreign eye. It was 
a lovely and romantic place. The water 
fell into a small, but deep, circular pond. 
Exquisite varieties of ferns and mosses grew 
upon the rocks lining its sides, and no sound 
was heard but the plashing of water. 

Some of the natives are said to have a 
superstitious fear of the place, the remains 



190 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

of their old religion ; and the way up was 
lined with offerings, consisting of a leaf 
with a few stones piled on it. I don't be- 
lieve they are much afraid, for they laughed 
if the stones were thrown over. 

The next day we rode on fifteen miles to 
Kaneohe. Here we met Rev. Mr. Parker's 
people. On our way we passed several 
rice-fields. Eice is grown in wet places, 
like the taro. It looks very much like 
grain as you see it in the distance, but it 
is of a very brilliant green. 

Early the next morning we left for Hono- 
lulu. Soon after we started, our baggage- 
horse ran away. One of the bags which 
he bore got loose and frightened him. 
Our horses saw him coming with one bag 
swinging back and forth under his body,, 
and began to be uneasy, so we turned them 
off to the side of the road, and he rushed 
past us. The gentlemen and natives started 
in pursuit. The poor horse crossed a river, 



OAHU. 191 

and was finally caught in a taro-patch. Our 
bags were torn to pieces, and many of their 
contents scattered over the plain ; some 
were wet through or stained with the green 
mud from the taro-fields. 

" Did you find all your things 1 " asked 
Harry. 

Almost everything ; the poor horse looked 
sadly jaded and tired, but he had to carry 
the baggage the rest of the way. 

We rode up a precipitous ascent two or 
three thousand feet high, by a zigzag road 
cut into its sides. The adjacent precipices 
are some of them much higher. Over one 
of these Kamehameha I. drove the defeated 
warriors of Oahu, in his last battle on the 
island. ' That was savage warfare. The 
precipice up which we rode is called 
" The Pali," or precipice ; it is at the head 
of Nuuanu valley. The finest approach to 
it is from Honolulu. Masses of rock rise 
high above you on either side, while a 



192 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

beautiful panorama of hills, valleys, cot- 
tages, winding streams, and verdant planta- 
tions all opens to your astonished eye, and 
bounding the distant view is the ocean. 

Riding down Nuuanu valley, we were 
again surrounded by our Honolulu friends. 
Our tour of the Hawaiian Islands was 
ended. 

The next day, May 30, the steamer Ki- 
lauea came into port, bringing missionaries 
from the other islands to attend the general 
meeting appointed to be held in Honolulu 
in the month of June. 

The meeting opened June 3, and every 
morning and afternoon there were business 
meetings until the 16th, when the exami- 
nation of Oahu College at Punahou com- 
menced. It was a fine examination, — the 
same studies as in our New England acade- 
mies. It lasted through two days, and on 
the third day there was an exhibition in the 
evening at the stone church. The house 



ojihu. 193 

was prettily decorated, the king lending 
his royal reception-flag for the occasion, an 
enormous banner forty feet long. This was 
suspended by the four corners from the 
ceiling, forming a sort of canopy over the 
platform. There were also American, 
French, British, Spanish, and Hawaiian 
flags, together with wreaths, mottoes, and 
bouquets. The church was crowded with 
foreigners and natives. The speeches were 
good, the young men doing themselves 
credit, and the singing was fine ; indeed, 
there are some superior singers in Hono- 
lulu. Commencement ended, as in our 
own country, with the president's levee. 
Everybody seemed to be present, and to 
enjoy themselves, and did ample justice to 
the abundant collation spread in the col- 
lege hall. The evening closed with patri- 
otic songs, and thus ended the college year 
of 1863. 

General meeting was resumed after the 
13 



194 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

exercises at Punahou were concluded. Al- 
most every missionary was present, and had 
brought a part or the whole of his family. 
The Pastor of the Foreign Church, the 
Seamen's Chaplain, President of Oahu Col- 
lege, native pastors and delegates were all 
present. It was delightful to witness the 
harmony pervading this large body, and 
to see how strong the Christian and mis- 
sionary tie that bound them together. 
There they sat day after day, exchang- 
ing their opinions, discussing questions, 
and settling matters of great importance 
to them and the people, meeting and pray- 
ing together, and it seemed as if the spirit 
of Christ rested upon them ; for no jar or 
discord was allowed to enter. 

The work of the Lord in those islands is 
very great! There are now only 67,000 
inhabitants, and yet in these forty-three 
years in which the mission has been in 
operation there have been 52,413 converts, 



ojlhu: 195 

and 19,679 are now connected with the 
churches. Surely, this may be called 
a Christian nation. There was another 
" Cousins' Meeting " on the evening of 
June 6th. I wish you could peep in upon 
one of these gatherings. Thirty or forty 
young people together, all united by the 
missionary tie, the ladies wearing light or 
white muslins, with gay belts and sashes, 
flowers in their hair, and happy, joyous, 
faces ; the gentlemen with a rose in their 
button-hole, in summer dress ; windows, 
doors, and blinds all open ; and after the 
business of the meeting is over, numerous 
happy couples promenading to and fro on 
the piazza. All this gives a festive look, 
and one has a feeling of interest not felt in 
gatherings in our own land. At parties 
there, one never expected a greater vari- 
ety of refreshments than cake, coffee, and 
strawberries; so they can be conducted 
without much expense, and little- companies 



196 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

are the order of the day. Then it is so 
easy getting about ; no cold winter snows 
to trudge through, no chilling wind to guard 
against ; everybody has a horse or vehicle 
of some kind, or his next neighbor has, 
and is willing to be neighborly. 

But we must leave Honolulu parties, 
and go to an American supper. 



XIX. 



analuhx again, 

EE little Alice came for 
me, with her bright face, 
at four o'clock next day, 
to lead me to my accus- 
tomed seat in the sit- 
ting-room, where my 
happy little group were 
always awaiting me. 

The general meeting occupied most of 
the days until three o'clock, and we ladies 
took our sewing and listened to the grave 
debates. It was an interesting season to 
all present. 

Half a dozen of us started on horseback 

197 




198 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

one afternoon, to visit Kalihe valley, one 
of the beautiful gulches near Honolulu ; but 
when we reached the entrance of the val- 
ley, it rained so that we could not explore 
its charms. But we turned off to the resi- 
dence of an aged blind man, and rambled 
in his garden among peach, orange, and 
mango-trees, and then sat on the piazza 
eating mangoes and chatting for an hour. 
One of the most valued trees in this whole 
garden was a little dwarf apple-tree, with 
two good-sized apples on it. Those were 
some of the first ever grown on the islands, 
I believe. After our mango feast, we had 
a brisk gallop back to the town. 

One day we occupied in making wreaths 
and mottoes to decorate the schoolhouse, 
where the annual meeting of the Cousins' 
Society was to be held in the evening. 
Over the middle window, opposite the door, 
were the letters " X L C R" [Excelsi- 
or], and below were a wreath and festoon, 



HONOLULU. 199 

with pendants intermixed with beautiful 
flowers. On either side, was " Unity, 
1852 " [when the society was formed], and 
"Harmony, 1863." In the arch of each 
window hung a wreath of maile, a pretty 
green vine. Between each window was a 
tin candle-stand, trimmed with the vine 
and flowers. Over the door were four 
small American flags intertwined with one 
Hawaiian flag. The reports of the officers 
were read, and various addresses made, and 
" Ilnity " and u Harmony " were the watch- 
words of the meeting. We had one more 
meeting at the schoolhouse, when grandpa 
addressed the Cousins, reminding them of 
the responsibility resting on them ; that as 
their fathers laid the burden down, they 
must take it up, and be to the Hawaiian 
people a help and support. They an- 
swered that they were ready and willing, 
and, God helping them, they would try and 



200 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

be faithful to the people committed to their 
care. 

The last part of our stay in Honolulu 
we spent at the hospitable house of Mrs. 
Chamberlain, one of the oldest buildings in 
Honolulu. The house was in a very sunny 
spot, and was of stone. Pretty little lizards 
used to come out of their hiding-places and 
sun themselves, and I often watched them 
as they played about. 

" Wouldn't they hurt you? " asked timid 
little Alice. 

Oh, no, indeed ! they are perfectly 
harmless. They are very small and deli- 
cate; I seldom saw one more than three 
or four inches long. 

" Do they have snakes on the islands ? " 
asked Harry. 

No, not one ; the only poisonous rep- 
tiles are scorpions and centipedes. I saw 
only one scorpion. That was at Punahou. 
I was sitting in the parlor one day, and saw 



HONOLULU. 201 

a small peculiar-looking creature creeping 
towards me on the floor. Some movement 
of mine made it throw its tail up over its 
back ; then 1 1 knew it was a scorpion ; for 
I had read that the sting was in the tail, 
and when frightened, it would throw its tail 
over its back ready to strike. One of the 
gentlemen killed it. 

I saw only two live centipedes. They 
are ugly-looking creatures. One dreads a 
close contact with them. They run and 
twist about as if they felt they were un- 
welcome guests. 

We had a very pleasant farewell party 
at Dr. Judd's, where we met missionary 
friends and some of the foreign consuls 
and their wives. Once more I explored 
the extinct crater of Punchbowl, this time 
on horseback, and admired the beautiful 
landscape before me when tinged with the 
setting sun. 

On the afternoon of June 26th, the native 



202 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

women brought us gifts of tapa, necklaces, 
corals, etc. It was a suggestion of their 
own. They wished us to take home me- 
mentoes of them, and had been planning 
it for some time among themselves. Some 
of the necklaces were made of beautiful 
yellow feathers. Only two of that color 
grow on the bird, one under each wing ; 
so the necklaces are very valuable. Oth- 
ers were made of hundreds of small braids 
of human hair, from which is suspended a 
hook made of whale's tooth. Those were 
worn in former times only by chiefs. 

My last excursion was a ride round the 
old crater of Diamond Head. We rode 
through the fine cocoa-nut grove of Wai- 
kiki, drinking from its refreshing fruit, and 
then cantered along the sea-beach, nearing 
the desolate mountain at every bound. Just 
before we reached its base, — a narrow belt 
of sand only separating it from the sea, — 
a party of gayly-dressed natives came one 



hojstol ul u. 203 

by one round a projecting point on the 
full gallop. All wore their red and yel- 
low kehaes, or riding-suits. There were 
twenty or more of them, and it seemed 
like a streak from a rainbow as they flitted 
by. 

The nearer we came to Diamond Head, 
the more forbidding it looked. Nothing 
green is seen upon it; old decaying, 
crumbling lava extends from its summit 
to its base. Beyond the volcano is a very 
ancient burying-ground on the sea-shore, 
and as we rode over it, bones were often 
seen. We completed the circuit of Dia- 
mond Head, riding a distance of twelve 
miles in two hours, and returned quite 
refreshed by the excursion. 

I then bade adieu to my little horse, who 
had served me so faithfully and well. He 
bore the name of " Shakspeare," though 
usually called by the undignified title of 
Eat. Never did a little horse more deserve 



204 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

a better name. But then, " What's in a 
name ] " 

On Sabbath afternoon, June 28th, Mr. 
Henry H. Parker, the son of^ a mission- 
ary, was ordained pastor of the congrega- 
tion worshiping in the stone church. The 
services were very interesting to witness, 
but were all in Hawaiian. We had be- 
come quite familiar with the native sen- 
tence, "E pule kakou" — "Let us pray." 
The right hand of fellowship was given 
by Eev. Mr. Kuaea, a native minister, and 
it was an affecting sight to see those two 
young men, one white — the other dark- 
skinned, — clasp hands in Christian fellow- 
ship. 

The 30th of June I attended my last 
" candy-pull." This is a fashionable amuse- 
ment there. The candy is made from 
sugar, and is whiter and less sticky than 
molasses. 

Saturday, July 4th, opened in quite a 



HONOLULU. 205 

patriotic manner with the firing of thirteen 
cannon. At ten, we went to Fort Street 
church, and heard a fine oration from the 
pastor, Rev. Mr. Corwin. The church was 
decorated with flags. Over the pulpit was 
laid a very large and elegant American 
flag, — a silken banner. It seemed like an 
American assembly on our nation's birth- 
day. Early in the afternoon we attended 
a picnic on the grounds of Oahu College, 
Punahou. Those assembled sat in groups 
on the grass, while our Declaration of Inde- 
pendence was read. Then they adjourned 
to a long tent, under which were two tiers 
of tables, abundantly laid with a tempting 
array of good things, while " the feast of 
reason and flow of soul " were supplied by 
several patriotic speeches and songs. Thir- 
teen cannon were fired at noon and night, 
and fireworks closed the evening. So you 
see how patriotic Americans are abroad. 
July 5 th was our last Sabbath in the 



206 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

islands. Grandpa had a farewell meeting 
at the stone church in the morning, at 
which about twenty-five hundred natives 
were present. Grandpa bade them good- 
by, and Judge Ii [Ee], one of themselves, 
expressed their farewell. Many crowded 
round to say their last " aloha." It really 
made us feel sad to part from this interest- 
ing people. We longed to labor among 
them, and continue the good work so fa- 
vorably begun. 

Monday morning, July 6th, we went on 
board the bark Comet. Farewells were 
said ; our visit at these islands was ended ; 
and we were homeward bound. 

What happy memories cluster around 
that little group of islands in the Pacific ! 
We received only good deeds and kind 
words while there. The houses of mission- 
aries and foreigners were ever opened to us 
in hospitality, and the natives were ready 
with a hand-grasp and a hearty " aloha." 



-HONOLULU. 207 

It is only about forty-three years since 
the missionaries first went there, and no- 
body could read or write, nobody had ever 
written in their language, and now — thanks 
to our heavenly Father and the mission- 
aries — almost all the natives can do both. 

What should we be, if only a little over 
forty years ago, our parents had been de- 
graded heathen, knowing nothing of God, 
wandering about as naked and as wicked 
as those poor Hawaiians were ? We ought 
to thank God, both for them and for our- 
selves, — for ourselves, because we were not 
born thus, and for them, because the light 
of the gospel and of civilization has dawned 
upon them. 



XX. 



#«SBjj* to Satt $xmam. 

OW, aunty, tell us about 
your homeward voyage," 
said Willie as I made my 
appearance in the sitting- 
room at the usual time. So 
I began : — 

Our voyage was a tedious 
one, for we had a succession of calms all 
the way. It was very discouraging, for we 
would be sailing with a good breeze, our 
sails all filled ; then the wind would die 
away, and the sails would flap lazily against 
the mast. 

Our captain was patient and good-natured, 

208 




VOYAGE TO SAJY FRANCISCO. 209 

and so were we. That shows you the power 
of example. If the captain had fumed and 
fretted, and wondered why we could not 
have a wind, very likely we should have 
felt ill-natured and looked cross too, and 
have had a very unpleasant time. As it 
was, we made the best of our calms, and 
hoped for a breeze, and rejoiced even if we 
were " making haste slowly." 

On the ninth day out, we had some vari- 
ety, for a shoal of fish passed us, called 
albacoa ; we caught a fine large one. A 
ship hove in sight, too, and we thought she 
had just the name for our calm sailing, the 
" All-Serene." She was an English ship, 
from Sydney, Australia, and had been sixty 
days out. She wanted fresh provisions and 
flour ; so our captain gave her potatoes, ba- 
nanas, and turkeys. Being so much be- 
calmed ourselves, our captain did not dare 
to give them flour, as we might come short, 
and they had plenty of hard bread. It quite 

14 



210 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

revived our courage, for what were our 
nine days compared with their sixty days ? 
And we had plenty of provisions and good 
company. 

We saw a great many flying-fish every 
day. These are small, and have their for- 
ward fins so long that they serve them as 
wings skimming along on the surface of the 
water. They looked very silvery in the 
sunlight, and I thought at first they were 
little white birds. 

Several times we saw porpoises, and one 
day a shoal of whales was in sight. One 
big black fellow leaped out of the water ; 
we first saw his great head, then his fluked 
tail thrown up in the air, as he dived down 
to depths beneath. Some of them were 
spouting and playing about us, and one 
had a young whale with her. 

A large shoal of " skip jacks " sur- 
rounded the ship one morning ; there must 
have been thousands of them ! 



VOYAGE TO SAJY FRAJYCISCO. 211 

" What are skip jacks ? " asked Willie. 

A pretty blue fish between one and two 
feet long ; they were mostly blue, but 
seemed to change to all colors of the rain- 
bow. The men fished for them with a 
hook covered with a rag, which the fish 
were supposed to imagine a flying-fish, and 
ten of them were silly enough to be de- 
ceived ; so we had a chowder of fresh 
fish. 

The captain had the galley or cook-room 
cleared up for us one afternoon, and we 
boiled sugar for candy. He did everything 
possible for our comfort, and often sent in 
a dish of hot roasted peanuts for us. These 
peanuts grew on the Sandwich Islands. 
We saw the plant, the leaf of which is very 
much like a clover-leaf, and the nut grows 
underground on the roots like artichokes. 
Kind island friends had given us a large 
supply of bananas and pine-apples ; so we 
had quite a variety on our bill of fare. 



212 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

On Tuesday, the 28th of July, we came 
into water colored and of a lighter shade 
than anv we had seen. The cause of 
this is said to be the immense amount of 
mud washed down from the gold-diggings 
through the Sacramento River ; I can not 
say whether this is true or not. We hoped 
to get into San Francisco in time to dine the 
next day ; but a calm dissipated all such 
anticipations, and we lay off and on by the 
Farallone Islands all the night of the 29th. 

"We saw a great many diver birds, about 
the size of pigeons. While sailing along on 
the water, they would all at once dive and 
disappear, and remain under water a long 
while. 

The Farallone Islands are a small group 
of rocky islets, lying in the Pacific Ocean, 
about thirty-five miles west of San Fran- 
cisco. There are two groups of them, the 
North and South Farallones, about eight 
miles distant from each other. The south- 




Sea Lion. — Page 213. 



VOYAGE TO SAN FRANCISCO. 213 

ern islands are the most important. On 
the summit of the largest rock, which is 
about three hundred and fifty feet high, is 
a lighthouse. The only person on the isl- 
and is the light-keeper. The islands are 
one vast menagerie. Birds of many varie- 
ties make their home here by swarms, and 

thousands of sea-lions and seals cover the 

i 
rocks. 

" What are sea-lions ? " asked Harry. 

A species of seal often as large as an ox, 
and weighing from two to three thousand 
pounds each. They make a very loud 
noise, a sort of moaning cry, like " yoi 
hoey, yoi hoey." The young seals are of a 
dark mouse color, but the older ones are of 
a light-brown. At a distance the braying 
of these sea-lions sounded like the rumbling 
of a railroad train. There is a hole in 
the rock on one of these islands, where the 
air is drawn through with a sound like the 
whistle of a steam-engine. 






214 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

Every spot and foothold on these rocks 
seems to be the abode of a bird or seal ; 
the waters around swarm with life, while 
large flocks of birds are coming from every 
direction. Vast quantities of eggs are taken 
from these rocks and carried to the San 
Francisco market every year. 

We left the Farallones about three o'clock 
in the morning, and when we came on deck, 
they were fading in the dim distance. 

One of the first objects noticed as we ap- 
proached the coast was Fort Point, where 
is a massive fortification, well mounted with 
heavy guns. Between this point and Lime 
Point is the celebrated Golden Gate, which 
is about a mile wide and is the entrance 
into the bay of San Francisco. Connected 
with Fort Point is a lighthouse and fog- 
bell ; the latter is always rung during foggy 
weather. 

In the bay just opposite the Golden Gate, 
and about three and a half miles from Fort 



VOYAGE TO SAN FRANCISCO. 215 

Point, is Alcatraces Island. It commands 
the entrance to the great bay of San Fran- 
cisco. About the center of the island is a 
large building which may be used for bar- 
racks or a citadel. A belt of batteries en- 
circles the island, and it seems to be de- 
fended at every point. There is a light- 
house and fog-bell on this island also. 

Soon after passing Alcatraces Island, we 
came to anchor near Mission Street wharf. 
We waited for the custom-house officer to 
come on board. After a short detention 
we went down the ship's ladder into a small 
boat, and were soon on shore. Half an 
hour's ride brought us to the Lick* House, 
and the journey to the Hawaiian Islands 
was among the things of the past. Though 
so far away from home and friends, we 
were in the United States, and under our 
own beloved flag. 

We did not forget to thank the Father 
of mercies for his kind care of us when on 






216 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

the deep, and beseech him to continue his 
loving-kindness to us while in that far-off 
part of our great country. Friends gath- 
ered about us with their warm greetings, 
and we soon left the hotel and took up our 
abode in a quiet family circle. But our 
hearts began to hasten our departure for 
our eastern home. 



XXI. 






E took one ciay a very 
pleasant drive out to 
the Cliff House. Op- 
posite this hotel, which 
is just on the beach, 
■^ are some craggy rocks, 
which are entirely cov- 
ered with seals and sea- 
lions. They are so near that you can 
see them playing in the water, which 
seems to be alive with them, while their 
mournful cry echoes in your ears, " yoi 
hoey, yoi hoey." We took quite a drive 
on the beach, and saw many little " Portu- 

217 




218 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

guese men-of-war," which had been washed 
up on the sand. They are a sort of stiff 
jelly fishes, in shape resembling a wafer, 
with the half of another wafer set up 
across the center like a sail. We used 
to see thousands of them floating on the 
water when at sea. It was quite inter- 
esting to watch some little birds, which ran 
along so swiftly on the sand that they 
seemed to glide without any movement 
of their feet. They looked brown, but 
when they flew, their breasts and the un- 
der part of their wings were snowy 
white ; and as their wings vibrated quick- 
ly, the sudden alternation of brown and 
white had a very pretty effect. 

At four o'clock on the afternoon of Au- 
gust 5th, we started for Sacramento, on 
the steamer Yo Semite. The steamer was 
named for a beautiful valley in California. 
The first object of interest we passed was 
Alcatraces Island, with its circle of bat- 



CALIFORNIA. 219 

teries ; but our chief attention was bestowed 
upon the city left behind us and the ship- 
ping, — the larger craft lying at anchor, or 
changing their position, and the smaller 
boats flitting here and there in the bay. 
Passing several islands, we entered San 
Pablo Bay [St. Paul]. The scenery on 
either side was interesting, but soon, passing 
through the Straits of Carquinez, we were 
in Suisun Bay, and neared the city of Beni- 
cia. An arsenal, barracks for soldiers, and 
the works of the Pacific Mail Steamship 
Company are located here. While sailing 
in this bay, we had a good view of Monte 
Diablo, a high and lonely mountain which 
seems to be the landmark for all the coun- 
try round. We passed the San Joaquin 
River, and soon entered the Sacramento 
River, a muddy, turbid stream. All the 
mud from the mines is washed into this 
river, and pours down into the bay, and 
from thence to the ocean, coloring the 



220 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

water for a long distance out to sea. We 
passed by vast quantities of tules or rushes, 
which cover the surface of the water for 
miles. Our arrival at Sacramento was 
about midnight, but we remained on board 
the boat until morning, and then went to 
the Vernon House. After breakfast we 
walked a short distance up the river to a 
fine bridge about nine hundred feet long. 
After lunch we took the cars for Folsom, 
twenty miles from Sacramento, accompanied 
by a friend. We passed into the mining 
district, and at Folsom took a carriage. 
It was warm and dusty riding, as there is 
no rain in the summer in that section of 
California. After an hour's ride, reached 
Willow Springs, where were the mines we 
had come to see. This was an hydraulic 
mine ; that is, it is worked by water. We 
clambered about in the excavation, saw 
the bed rock, upon which there is a layer 
of gold-bearing gravel, then one of clay, 



CALIFORNIA. 221 

another of gold-bearing gravel, then of clay 
again, and one more of gravel. They play 
with a hose on the gravel, and the water 
and gravel is washed down through long 
sluices, the bottom of which is made un- 
even by blocks of wood placed across. 
The bits of gold lodge on the uneven 
surface. In some places they cut down 
the gravel with pickaxes, and wash it in 
pans. One man washed out a spadeful of 
gravel for us, and we brought home a few 
specks of gold dust. We returned to Sacra- 
mento to dine, and after dinner I rode out 
to the Fair grounds, where the great State 
agricultural fairs are held. This is the 
fashionable drive in Sacramento in the 
afternoon. Here is a fine drive of a mile, 
outside of which are stalls for cattle. A 
gentleman told us that in 1849 he sold flour 
for three hundred dollars a barrel ; and 
bought potatoes for a dollar and a half a 
pound. That was when California was 



222 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

first known as a gold country, and so many 
people went thither to seek their fortunes, ' 

The next morning, Mr. M., one of our 
fellow-passengers from New York to San 
Francisco took us a delightful drive about 
the city and suburbs. We saw the levees, 
which were erected to save the city from 
another flood. 

" What are levees ? " asked Willie. 

They are heavy banks of earth built along 
the margin of the stream. The last flood 
took place in the winter, on December 9, 
1861, and January 10, 1862. The whole 
city was flooded. The water rose over the 
table in the dining-room of the hotel in 
which we stayed. Houses could be reached 
only in boats, and no one knew how soon his 
dwelling might be undermined and fall. A 
great deal of the fertile land about Sacra- 
mento was ruined by the flood, being cov- 
ered with a deep layer of gravel. 

We saw the new capitol which is in 



CALIFORNIA. 223 

process of erection, and a large, handsome 
structure it will be. We passed near Sut- 
ter's Fort, where it was first discovered that 
there were gold mines in this country. 

In 1853, the city spread over about as 
much ground as it now does, when it was 
destroyed by fire. The climate of Sacra- 
mento is very different from that of San 
Francisco, being much warmer. It is so 
far from the coast that it escapes the chill- 
ing wind that visits the latter city at certain 
seasons of the year. 

In the afternoon we went on board the 
steamer Chrysopolis bound for San Fran- 
cisco. We went through a slough (or, as 
the people pronounce it, slew) in the river 
about seven miles long. 

" What is a slough ? " asked Alice. 

There was a long bend in the river, of 
fourteen miles, so they cut a sort of canal 
across it, and half the distance was saved. 
This canal they call a slough. 



224 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

Mr. M. told us that in one of the early 
years of the gold excitement, there was an 
old man who had watermelons that were in 
great demand, sometimes selling for five 
dollars apiece. The next year a great many 
people wanted the seed to plant ; these were 
sold for sixteen dollars per ounce, but not 
one came up ; so they suppose he boiled the 
seeds before he sold them ! We arrived at 
San Francisco towards midnight. At noon 
on Saturday we took the steamboat for 
Oakland, which is across the bay from San 
Francisco. It took its name from the num- 
ber of oak-trees growing there. They give 
a green and pleasant appearance to the 
country round. California College is situa- 
ted in Oakland. 

On Sabbath we had the pleasure in 
the morning of listening to a sermon 
from an old friend, and in the evening 
grandpa told the people of what God 
•had wrought through the missionaries in 
the Sandwich Islands. 



CALIFORNIA. 225 

Monday morning we were taken a long 
ride over the country about Oakland. On 
our way back, we stopped at Mr. B.'s or- 
chard, and had some very nice plums, 
white and purple. There were nectar- 
ines, also, which have the skin of a plum 
and the stone of a peach ; apricots, which 
have the skin of a peach and stone of a 
plum; I never knew the difference in 
those two fruits before. We had some 
delicious peaches, and brought away a 
branch of the almond-tree, with the nuts 
on it, which looked like green peaches. 
We then took the Oakland boat and were 
soon at our home in San Francisco. Cali- 
fornia is noted for its fine fruits, and some- 
times we saw baskets of assorted kinds 
looking like those fine paintings we ad- 
mire so much. 

On Thursday, August 13, we bade our 
kind and hospitable California friends fare- 
well, and went down to embark on the 
15 



226 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

steamer Golden Age. The kindness of 
our friends did not end when we left their 
houses, as beautiful bouquets and baskets 
of fruit in our staterooms testified. We 
parted from them with regret, for we had 
received nothing but kindness from their 
hands. Farewells were said, and San Fran- 
cisco soon faded from our sight. We were 
again on the restless ocean, but we were 
homeward bound I 



XXII. 



b 



^ UNTY, aunty, please come 
and tell us our story," said 
little Alice ; " we are all 
waiting. You know this is 
our last story, for we go 
home to-morrow." So down 
I went. 



We were fairly at sea again. Our 
steamer was a very good one, and we had 
pleasant accommodations. Grandpa and 
grandma had a fine, large stateroom, and 
as there were not a great number of pas- 
sengers, I, also, had a stateroom all to 

myself. I had the lower berth taken out, 

227 




228 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

and my trunks brought up and placed 
under my berth ; then I spread down my 
rug, and brought in my deck chair, and 
my room had quite a cozy, homelike air; 
and I took a great deal of comfort in it. 
The officers on the boat were very pleasant, 
and we became acquainted with some of 
the passengers. 

On Sabbath morning, eight of the young- 
er people met together and formed a choir, 
practiced sacred music, and sung in the 
morning service, when Eev. Mr. McMona- 
gle preached. In the afternoon we went 
to the forward part of the steamer, and 
grandpa preached to the steerage passen- 
gers, on " Christ in the ship in the storm." 
The choir sung, and the poor people looked 
so gratified and pleased to have preaching 
and singing that it did one's heart good. 

We used to sing songs almost every 
evening, and it was very pleasant as we sat 
on the quarter-deck looking off on the 



HOMEWARD BOUND. 229 

water. The moon cast her radiance over 
the ocean ; the white foam, in a long line 
back, marked our track; and the brilliant 
stars, seeming far brighter than they do in 
our northern heavens, looked like diamonds 
in God's firmament. We sailed along easily 
and smoothly until the morning of August 
30, when we were wakened early by the 
rolling of the ship, and found a hurri- 
cane upon us. It was almost impossible to 
dress, but after being tossed against both 
sides of my stateroom several times, I suc- 
ceeded. What a dismal scene met my 
eye as I opened my door ! Carpets rolled 
up, sofas and chairs piled in together, the 
marble tops of the tables taken off and 
lashed to the floor, skylights leaking, so 
that we had to choose our footing care- 
fully, or the 'slippery floors and the ship's 
rolling would soon bring us down to the 
floor. On every hand crashes were heard 
from unlucky lamp-shades, bottles, pitch- 



230 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

ers, or anything breakable that was not 
properly secured. The waves seemed moun- 
tain high, and the wind was so strong that 
their crests were blown off in spray. 

After a while the captain ordered us 
all below. The scene in the lower cabin 
was dismal in the extreme. Passengers 
— many of them only half dressed, most of 
them pale from sea-sickness or fear — all 
crowded together on the sofas on one side 
of the saloon ; for the vessel lay over so 
that we could sit only on one row of 
sofas. A dozen people, perhaps, were 
leaning over the backs of the sofas at 
one time, all sea-sick. Children were cry- 
ing from hunger or fright. What a scene ! 
We shipped wave after wave with a shock 
that made the vessel tremble from stem 
to stern. Crash followed crash. At one 
time the cases filled with dishes in the 
pantry gave way, and what a noise of 
broken crockery! Three enormous bas- 



HOMEWARD BOUND. 231 

kets were filled with the pieces. One of 
the bulkheads was knocked out, and eleven 
sheep were washed overboard. The butch- 
er's shop was washed away, and two bar- 
rels of beef, one of mackerel, and one 
of table butter went with the rest. The 
heavy stoves in the steerage cook-room 
were turned half-way round, and the cap- 
ping of the huge smokestack was moved 
several inches. The terrible wind lifted 
the hurricane-deck, so that six of its props 
fell out. There was danger of the upper 
deck and stateroom being blown away. 
That was a time to try people's souls, to 
make them consider whether they were 
the Lord's or not. It was a blessed thing 
to feel that we were in God's hands, that 
even if the water closed over our bodies, 
it would be only the gate of heaven ! 
What happiness to be able to feel in 
one's heart: " My Father rules the storm." 
Many of us thought of grandpa's sermon 



232 THE HA WAIIAJY ISLANDS. 

on the Sabbath, when he said, "With 
Christ in the ship, we may smile at the 
storm." 

The wind was so violent that the men 
doing duty on deck had to lie down, and 
pull themselves about, or creep on their 
hands and knees. For two hours our 
forward rail was three feet under water, 
the vessel lay so much on one side, 
and for some time the ship would not 
mind her helm, and lay in the trough of 
the sea. Finally, they rigged a small sail 
aft, and that brought her up. He who 
rules the wind and the sea caused the 
storm to abate, and towards evening it was 
comparatively calm. We had had nothing 
to eat for twenty-four hours, which will 
give you some idea of the storm. State- 
rooms and clothes were in many in- 
stances wet; but no one complained, for 
all felt thankful for our escape. In the 
evening there was a meeting in the saloon, 



HOMEWARD BOUND. 233 

and almost all the passengers assembled 
with the officers of the vessel to give 
thanks to God for his preserving mercy. 
The next morning I rose early, so that 
I might see the entrance to Acapulco Har- 
bor. This entrance is very narrow, and is 
surrounded by high wooded hills, forming 
one of the best harbors on the Pacific 
coast, south of San Francisco. I went on 
shore again ; but I gave you a description 
of the place before. 

August 27 found us at anchor off Pan- 
ama. We were sorry to leave our good 
ship and her pleasant corps of officers. 
When we were in the cars, the natives 
brought a great many things to sell. One 
man would have ear-rings, the next wine, 
then "nice lomonard," or little ornaments 
of pearl-shell, while others brought fruit 
and cakes. After a tiresome hour, we 
started on our journey across the Isth- 
mus. 



234 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

One thing that attracted my attention 
was the telegraph-posts ; they looked like 
stone, but were made of concrete. 

" What is concrete ? " asked Harry. 

In this instance, I suppose it was a com- 
position made of pounded stone and ce- 
ment cast in a mold The mold was filled 
in with concrete and left for several days. 
The reason of their having such posts was 
that the worms destroyed the wooden ones. 

The natives brought into the cars some 
beautiful flowers. They were of alabaster 
whiteness, in shape not unlike a tulip, and 
having a strong perfume somewhat like 
the magnolia. Resting within the cup of 
the flower, lies the perfect image of a 
dove, with its beautifully formed wings 
spread out from its side, its head bent 
forward, and its tiny bill delicately tipped 
with red almost touching its snowy breast. 
No one who has seen the flower can won- 
der that the early Spanish Catholics be- 



HOMEWARD BOUND. 235 

lieved the flowers to have had a miracu- 
lous origin, and named it " Flor del Es- 
piritu Santo " or " The Flower of the 
Holy Ghost." 

Matachin is the largest station on the 
Isthmus. There we procured oranges, 
which were unusually fine, also cakes tast- 
ing like macaroons, and some bottles of 
milk. 

Over the Chagres River at Barbacoas, 
is a wrought-iron bridge six hundred and 
twenty-five feet long and eighteen broad, 
standing forty feet above the surface of the 
water ; it is said to be one of the longest 
and finest bridges in the world. All along 
the road the sensitive plant, with its feath- 
ery pink blossoms, grew in wild profusion. 

At half-past eight in the evening we 
were on board the steamer Champion. 
We soon commenced our last voyage, and 
such a voyage ! The vessel rolled, and the 
ice in the hold gave out, and in conse- 



236 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

queuce the meat was in no fit state to eat. 
Every body and every thing seemed uncom- 
fortable. It was a great change from the 
clean and pleasant Golden Age. We 
saw the islands of San Domingo, Nar- 
vasa, Jamaica, Cuba, Santa Inagua, and 
Mayo Guano, of the West Indies. 

On the morning of September 3, we 
were chased by a steamer. She was un- 
der sail when we first saw her, but com- 
menced getting up steam. She lost time 
in that operation, and we outsailed her, 
much to our joy. Our captain said with- 
out doubt she was a privateer. 

Next day we were in the Gulf Stream. 
It was rough, squally, and rainy, and the 
steamer rolled worse than ever. But all 
things come to an end, and the next day 
was bright and pleasant. We left the 
Gulf Stream in the night and were hap- 
py in a smooth sea. Six or seven ships 
were in sight, and in the afternoon we 



HOMEWARD BOUND. 237 

passed Barnegat Lighthouse, then Highland 
Light. We saw the lights in the hotels 
at Long Branch, and finally the light on 
Sandy Hook beamed on our delighted eyes. 

At two o'clock Sabbath morning, Septem- 
ber 6, we lay at anchor off quarantine, and 
at five' we were at the wharf in New York, 
— our voyage ended. After much delay 
and confusion, we got ourselves and bag- 
gage on and in a carriage, and soon 
were receiving the greetings of friends. 

Surely, we ought to sing with our whole 
hearts that beautiful hymn of Addison : — 

" How are thy servants blest, Lord ! 

How sure is their defense ! 
Eternal wisdom is their guide, 

Their help, Omnipotence. 
In foreign realms and lands remote, 

Supported by thy care, 
Through burning climes they pass unhurt, 

And breathe in tainted air. 

" When by the dreadful tempest borne 
High on the broken wave, 
They know thou art not slow to hear, 
Nor impotent to save. 



238 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. 

The storm is laid, the winds retire, 

Obedient to thy will ; 
The sea that roars at thy command, 

At thy command is still. 

" In midst of dangers, fears, and deaths, 

Thy goodness I'll adore ; 
I'll praise thee for thy mercies past, 

And humbly hope for more. 
My life, while thou preserv'st that life, 

Thy sacrifice shall be ; 
And death, when death shall be my lot, 

Shall join my soul to thee." 



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